Type: Ice, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Unknown, but claimed by many! 1970s
Page Views: 1,633 total · 38/month
Shared By: Dave Stimson on Nov 18, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route

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A classic, easy Rockies gully climb. Jo-Jo's guide book claims that this climb holds the record for most claimed first ascents.

This route does have considerable avalanche potential on it, but it is a pretty dry area in Kananaskis. It does get hit with slides later in the season though, and much of the ice can be covered in snow.

Climb this route for 4 to 6 pitches to the top of what you can see from the base. There may be more ice beyond this, but it was pretty thin when I was up there and consisted more of low angle rock/snow/ice.

To descend, continue up the drainage to a fork. Take the left hand, narrower gully. If there is ice, you can continue as high as you'd like, but you are ultimately aiming to escape the gully on the left into some tight trees. Bushwhack 100 m or so, until the trees thin and you can follow mellow terrain gently down and south. If it starts to get really steep, you need to traverse south more. If you head down too early, you will get cliffed out, but may gain a good view of the rib you want to be on. Cross a gully, then gain a broad, treeless rib and follow it all the way back to the Terrace Trail.


Park at the Galatea Trailhead. Descend a wide trail, across a suspension bridge. The trail heads up a creek bed, then crosses again at another bridge. There is a sign here. Head right on the Terrace Trail. Follow the trail for 30-45 mins, until you are below the climb. You will pass under Kidd Bowl and continue until below Sinatra Falls. (For clarity, Kidd Bowl is NOT the long gully that contains Kidd Falls, but the large east-facing bowl north of it). Leave the trail and wander uphill to the base of the route.


There is no fixed gear on this route. Bailing would require v-threads and tree anchors to get down. This route is popular early season, so make sure to bring a decent selection of shorter length screws.