Type: Trad, 1800 ft (545 m), 11 pitches, Grade III
FA: 1985 Rudi Kranabitter & Ferdl Taxbock
Page Views: 7,961 total · 70/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Jul 10, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Approach: 1 hour

Descent: 2-3 hours

Climb: 5-8 hours

Sun Exposure: All Day

Length: 11 pitches

Difficulty: 5.8 PG13

Rack: Double set of cams from tiny to 3" (#3 camalot), some nuts (optional RP's), knifeblade and baby angle pins (also optional).

The Fold is a spectacular climb up a rib of Mount Kidd. The views are spectacular and the climb is right next to Kidd Falls. The climbing is on mostly good to excellent rock with good pro on the crux sections. However, the climb is still very adventurous and skill at building belays with limited options is an asset. Bolts / fixed pins are few and far between, but the route is safe (PG13) and no pins are needed (as of 06/2011) if comfortable at the grade.

Be very wary of large loose blocks (particularly pitch 7) as this route has not received nearly as much traffic as other classics in the area.

I felt Direttissima on Yamnuska was technically much more difficult, but with much easier routefinding and belays.

P1: Climb out of the gully, just uphill of the tree on the ridge, through easy ledge systems to gain the ridge. Fixed nut right where you turn onto the ridge. (50m)

P2: Head up an easy groove with good pro, then traverse left onto loose ledges below a headwall. (5.7/8 30m)

P3: A hidden fixed pin down low and another 1 move up the wall protects the opening moves onto the somewhat overhanging crack system. Easier than it looks and good pro. (5.8 20m)

P4: Easy scrambling leads to another steep section of wall. Belay on right in a good crack or do a seat belay from the nice flat platform. (55m)

P5: Climb the steep juggy wall with decent to good pro. Belay above at a huge grassy ledge with a good crack. (60m - rope stretcher might need a few feet of simul-climbing depending on your P4 anchor).

P6 "The Wave": Climb the right side of the wave to an awesome hand crack with excellent pro once you get there. Either belay at the crack (semi-hanging) or finish the crack, climbing up and left of the roof and belay just above on the right side of the roof (easier than it looks) at a decent crack and great ledge. (5.7+ 40m) Beware of rockfall at this belay! Alternatively, climb on top of the wave (stay left for whole pitch) at an easier grade, but no pro.

P7: Be VERY CAREFUL starting up the next pitch as there are several LARGE and LOOSE death blocks. Easily avoided, just watch what you pull on. Climb this left side of the ridge back up to and on the ridge proper. Continue up to a semi-hanging belay on the right. Search for the best crack on the right.

P8: Climb up the ridge, trending right till you're almost in a chimney with the drop-off just on the right. Place an excellent small cam in a semi-hidden crack and climb straight up the face with an exciting mantel to the ridge. 2 new rap-ring anchors have been added to avoid the older far apart pins. (45m)

P9: Direct variation: Climb straight up the sweet looking groove avoiding the loose rock in the very center of the groove corner. Good pro on the left side face. Excellent 5.8 climbing! Belay at a 2 pin anchor just above the groove. (30m)

P9 original route?: Trend hard right and up a grey wall with jug holds to gain the scree ledge. I didn't climb this, so not 100% sure about the desc.

P10: Somewhat confusing. Climb up and left to clip a pin, follow a crack up and head right on easier ground, then back left to a mantel onto a scree shelf. A #3 RP (micro nut) protects the 5.6 mantel. Carefully head up the scree slope (very loose) and climb one more short rock band (good cam placement) to another scree slope. Belay off a fixed pin (at the foot of the headwall) and a #3 cam in a ledge crack on the left. "Interesting, yet solid belay".

P11: Climb the steep yellow juggy short 5m wall just above and right of the pin. Pro is crap and rock is crap, but it's really short above a huge flat scree ledge. Once on top, saunter across scree to back wall and shiny 2 bolt anchor. High five you're second when they arrive and slam summit brews in preparation for the epic rap.

Location

Approach: Same as for the Kidd Falls ice climb. Park at the Galeta Trail parking lot off the Kananaskis Highway 40. This is a well marked trailhead parking lot with outhouses and trash. Follow the trail downhill and across the suspension bridge. Cross one more smaller bridge and there is a trail map sign at a "T" junction. Head RIGHT for a few hundred meters to the first obvious dry creekbed. Follow this up for a few hundred meters and you'll find a well beaten trail that leads all the way up to Kidd Falls and the Fold. Head up the hillside left of the Fold gully and traverse across the gully at an easy section start the climb just uphill from a big tree growing on the Fold Rib.

Descent: From the two bolt anchor at the top of the route: rap 30 meters to a hidden 2 ring rap station on climbers left (see topo). From here it's a epic 50m double rope rap that is almost completely fee hanging.  Note that despite looking like your rapping into the void, you can look over the edge to the left to can see your ropes touch the ground on the wide scree ledge below. The rappel can also be done with two single rope raps using a completely free hanging and hidden intermediate station about 10-15m farther down(beats me how they got those bolts placed). Rap down into the void (knots in your rope wouldn't be a bad idea) and touchdown on a huge scree slope. From here follow a clear trail to a large cairn on descenders right.  Continue to traverse right on a good trail to circumvent a cliff band, then head back really far left to regain the main ridge. Follow the ridgeline down, trending left whenever possible. The well-worn trail will traverse into the trees (cairn) and bring you to a short (20m) tree rappel main forest.  It may be possible (as per the original poster) to traverse lower down before entering the trees to avoid the short rappel. The grassy knoll will lead down and back to the valley below the Fold allowing you to rejoing the Fold / Kidd Falls approach trail.

Protection

Double set of cams from tiny to 3" (#3 camalot), some nuts (optional RP's), knifeblade and baby angle pins (also optional). Highly recommend dual 60m ropes to enjoy the wicked 40-50m free hanging rappel!

Photos