Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), Grade III
GPS: 37.24199, -118.653
FA: Norman Clyde - July 1926
Page Views: 1,821 total · 18/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Sep 5, 2017
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Cross the bergschrund at 11,700' and follow the couloir for ~1200' to the col. The couloir averages 40 degrees and steepens a little just before the top. Some easy mixed climbing will get you to the col proper, where a couple hundred feet of scrambling lead to the summit. This route is recommended as an early season climb most years due to the high potential for rockfall.

Location Suggest change

Accessing the north face of Emerson may prove to be the crux of the adventure. There is no easy approach up the Birch Creek drainage. Take Dutch John Meadows road (FS 7S15) off Highway 168. This is the alternate 4x4 route to get to Mt Humphreys East Arete parking. Take a left on FS 8S15 and follow it to its end at the Horse Creek Spring. From here, hike up to the northwest towards a flat-ish bench which crosses the drainage coming off the Piute Crags. Contour across into the mega moraine below the north face of Emerson. Study a topographic map beforehand and plot your best path.

Protection Suggest change

A light rock rack and maybe a picket or two depending on comfort level. Downclimb the route to descend.

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