All Locations > New York > Powerlinez > f. Yankee Ramparts > 6. D J E A

Springboard

Name: Springboard
Rating: 3.2

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British X

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Routes in 6. D J E A

L › R R › L A › Z

	Dave + Fred's Rainy Day Adventure T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A1 PG13
	Dave + Jon's Excellent Adventure T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Durs McClimb T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Johnny Get Your Tape T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Left Face Venture TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Murphy's Law TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Springboard T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
	Unsomnambulist T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

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Type:	Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m)
GPS:	41.14637, -74.1701
FA:	Matt Murphy
Page Views:	1,092 total · 10/month
Shared By:	kenr on Aug 31, 2017
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, SMarsh Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance. Details

The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:

No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.

The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.

Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.

Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.

Description

Sustained interesting face climbing around 5.10 a/b -- but one short sequence much harder. Worthwhile to plan to "yard through" the crux below the high horizontal ledge, save energy to enjoy all those other good moves below and above it.

Up a bit right of small tree, and keep trending a bit right up to high horizontal ledge. Perhaps another step right, the up and left to the top.
. . Variation? Some climbers say they can make it all the way free if they traverse a ways left when they reach the crux sequence below the high horizontal ledge.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

Location

On the face 10-12 ft left from the obvious wide vertical crack, just right of small tree.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection

Not much protection for Trad leading.

The name of the route came from the idea of grabbing the curved trunk of the small tree behind and let its bending absorb the shock of fall -- in hope of not going to the ground if came off the rock.

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this D J E A sector.