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Dave + Jon's Excellent Adventure
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.9 from 10
votes
Routes in 6. D J E A
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Dave + Fred's Rainy Day Adventure T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A1 PG13 |
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Dave + Jon's Excellent Adventure T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Durs McClimb T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Johnny Get Your Tape TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Left Face Venture TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Murphy's Law TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Springboard T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Unsomnambulist T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Jon Crefeld + Dave Barone |
| Page Views: | 1,096 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Aug 30, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
"D J E A" is not everybody's idea of a fun crack climb. But if you want a range of interesting outdoor climbing challenges, here it is.
Crux sequence low in the crack is much harder than anything else in the climb. Much of the crack above that can be climbed without jamming technique. Sideways transition to upper section is either thoughtful outdoor challenge, or just awkward, depending on your taste. Upper crack section is: flaring, off-width, and short. The last hardish move near the top can involve the wide/flaring crack on the left with a crimpy sidepull out right. A bit of a spicy ending when wet.
Up the longer lower section of the crack, then shift left to finish up the short upper section.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).
Crux sequence low in the crack is much harder than anything else in the climb. Much of the crack above that can be climbed without jamming technique. Sideways transition to upper section is either thoughtful outdoor challenge, or just awkward, depending on your taste. Upper crack section is: flaring, off-width, and short. The last hardish move near the top can involve the wide/flaring crack on the left with a crimpy sidepull out right. A bit of a spicy ending when wet.
Up the longer lower section of the crack, then shift left to finish up the short upper section.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).
Location
Obvious wide vertical crack in right center of main wall. Its upper section shifts left three or four feet.
- - > see on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo
- - > see on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo
Protection
Protection for Trad leading is standard rack, though note that some key parts of the crack are wide. Big gear is however not needed for the wide lower section. The crux hand jam move near the start is protected by a 0.75 Camalot. Upper section protection is straightforward.
For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this D J E A sector.
For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this D J E A sector.
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