All Locations > New York > Powerlinez > f. Yankee Ramparts

D J E A Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in 6. D J E A

L › R R › L A › Z

	Dave + Fred's Rainy Day Adventure T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A1 PG13
	Dave + Jon's Excellent Adventure T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Durs McClimb T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Johnny Get Your Tape TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Left Face Venture TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Murphy's Law TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Springboard T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
	Unsomnambulist T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	531 ft	162 m
GPS:	41.14637, -74.1701 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	6,061 total · 53/month
Shared By:	kenr on Dec 18, 2015
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, SMarsh Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance. Details

The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:

No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.

The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.

Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.

Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.

Description

Lots of interesting steep face climbing, and an obvious crack.
. . (The acronym for the obvious crack gives the name to this sector).

. . Problem for several of the routes is a short crux much harder than the remainder. So if goal is enjoyment of lots of good moves, rather than purity of completion, arrive prepared with a method for "cheating" through those cruxes - (on top-rope usually it's sufficent to "yard" through it by the climber pulling on the belayer's strand of the rope).

. . On the left (NW) side of the Yankee Ramparts East area.

Top-Rope: Access to top of cliff by scrambling up around left side. Tree and rocks can be used as natural anchors with static line or long slings.

warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Getting There

First hike up on the usual trails to Basilisk wall, then walk WNW horizontally along the base of the low cliffs about 650 feet / 200 meters, passing by the Army Strong sector.