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Dave + Fred's Rainy Day Adventure
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British A1 PG13
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
Routes in 6. D J E A
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Dave + Fred's Rainy Day Adventure T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A1 PG13 |
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Dave + Jon's Excellent Adventure T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Durs McClimb T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Johnny Get Your Tape TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Left Face Venture TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Murphy's Law TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Springboard T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Unsomnambulist T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, Aid, 35 ft (11 m) |
| FA: | Dave Rosenstein + Fred Polvere |
| Page Views: | 739 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Aug 30, 2017 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Sequence off the ground is much harder than anything else on this route. Perhaps can be done free at 5.10 difficulty. But then anybody who can get that short sequence without aid will be bored by the remainder.
So this route is likely to be more fun for a less-strong climber if the Leader or the organizer of the Top-Roping can get set up some Aid for stepping up with their feet on the first couple of moves (say like an etrier / aid-ladder hanging down off a couple of pieces of Trad protection) -- or perhaps just have another member of party form a temporary foothold by standing under the starting overhang with low hands clasped together. After that the climber is free to haul up through the face above on buckets (some might say 5.4), then some variety of challenge when they reach the slab above (maybe one of the moves on it gets up to 5.6 difficulty?).
. . (The First Ascent party climbed this all free many years ago, and their ascent has been recorded with a much easier difficulty grade. Perhaps a key hold broke off since then).
Somehow get established up in the dihedral - (perhaps 5.10 if done Free, much easier with clever Aid). Then follow the fun jugs up to a non-steep slab. Turn left and up slab (second crux, might feel like 5.6?) to the top.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).
So this route is likely to be more fun for a less-strong climber if the Leader or the organizer of the Top-Roping can get set up some Aid for stepping up with their feet on the first couple of moves (say like an etrier / aid-ladder hanging down off a couple of pieces of Trad protection) -- or perhaps just have another member of party form a temporary foothold by standing under the starting overhang with low hands clasped together. After that the climber is free to haul up through the face above on buckets (some might say 5.4), then some variety of challenge when they reach the slab above (maybe one of the moves on it gets up to 5.6 difficulty?).
. . (The First Ascent party climbed this all free many years ago, and their ascent has been recorded with a much easier difficulty grade. Perhaps a key hold broke off since then).
Somehow get established up in the dihedral - (perhaps 5.10 if done Free, much easier with clever Aid). Then follow the fun jugs up to a non-steep slab. Turn left and up slab (second crux, might feel like 5.6?) to the top.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).
Location
Dihedral with cracks at the right end of the main face.
- - > see on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo
- - > see on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo
Protection
Details of Protection for Trad leading are unknown. The crux move near the ground is likely not well protected.
For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this D J E A sector.
For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this D J E A sector.
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