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Routes in Main Wall
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Amazing Journey T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Circle of Life T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Juggernaut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Magician T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Merlin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Olympian T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C0 |
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Razor's Edge, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Stiletto T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | I F Howell, I J Allan, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 821 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Michael L on Jul 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Big Red |
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Description
An amazing route with some truly memorable pitches. My breakdown:
P1 - start 30 ft left of Magician. Pick your line up to a stance below a dirty splitter crack in the middle of a dark face and a corner on the right.
P2 - follow the corner on the right past some techy moves to a large roof. Go around the roof to the right, passing a couple pitons. Belay at tat on top of roof
P3 - go left to a huge dihedral covered in bird shit. Place some gear in the corner and stem up using the crack on the left face. Breath a sigh of relief when you reach the massive detached block. Continue up through a 0.75 - #2 sized layback with good feet, and belay on small ledge.
P4 - continue up shitty rock to the left
from EAMG:
"A superb, sustained and well-protected route, probably the best at Hell's Gate. Climb a pillar and blocks, then a right-leaning, widening crack to a ledge right of the flat-topped pillar. A 3m long grassy traverse right leads to the bottom of a long corner-groove system, terminating in a roof 40m above the ground. Climb this over bulge (VI-) to a small ledge on left (30m). Var: slightly harder but better. From just left of the two boulders climb to block on pedestal at 5m, then move right past a roof (VI) to bottom of the long corner; above rejoin the original line. Climb a thin crack right of ledge (VI) to roof, and from a peg in place traverse left to gain a groove left of roof (VI). Climb this to ledge on right (20m). Bridge up the corner on left (VI+) and pass a down-pointing flake to reach a ledge. Continue up the corner, strenuous layback (VI+), to a ledge on right (15m). Steep rock leads leftwards to an easy broken corner and the top (35m)."
This route starts about 30 ft left of The Magician. Located under a huge bird-shit covered dihedral about 1/2way up.
P1 - start 30 ft left of Magician. Pick your line up to a stance below a dirty splitter crack in the middle of a dark face and a corner on the right.
P2 - follow the corner on the right past some techy moves to a large roof. Go around the roof to the right, passing a couple pitons. Belay at tat on top of roof
P3 - go left to a huge dihedral covered in bird shit. Place some gear in the corner and stem up using the crack on the left face. Breath a sigh of relief when you reach the massive detached block. Continue up through a 0.75 - #2 sized layback with good feet, and belay on small ledge.
P4 - continue up shitty rock to the left
from EAMG:
"A superb, sustained and well-protected route, probably the best at Hell's Gate. Climb a pillar and blocks, then a right-leaning, widening crack to a ledge right of the flat-topped pillar. A 3m long grassy traverse right leads to the bottom of a long corner-groove system, terminating in a roof 40m above the ground. Climb this over bulge (VI-) to a small ledge on left (30m). Var: slightly harder but better. From just left of the two boulders climb to block on pedestal at 5m, then move right past a roof (VI) to bottom of the long corner; above rejoin the original line. Climb a thin crack right of ledge (VI) to roof, and from a peg in place traverse left to gain a groove left of roof (VI). Climb this to ledge on right (20m). Bridge up the corner on left (VI+) and pass a down-pointing flake to reach a ledge. Continue up the corner, strenuous layback (VI+), to a ledge on right (15m). Steep rock leads leftwards to an easy broken corner and the top (35m)."
This route starts about 30 ft left of The Magician. Located under a huge bird-shit covered dihedral about 1/2way up.
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