Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||I F Howell, I J Allan, 1977|
|Page Views:||295 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Alyosha Karamazov on Jul 7, 2017|
P1 - start 30 ft left of Magician. Pick your line up to a stance below a dirty splitter crack in the middle of a dark face and a corner on the right.
P2 - follow the corner on the right past some techy moves to a large roof. Go around the roof to the right, passing a couple pitons. Below at tat on top of roof
P3 - go left to a huge dihedral covered in bird shit. Place some gear in the corner and stem up using the crack on the left face. Breath a sigh of relief when you reach the massive detached block. Continue up through a 0.75 - #2 sized layback with good feet, and belay on small ledge.
P4 - continue up shitty rock to the left
"A superb, sustained and well-protected route, probably the best at Hell's Gate. Climb a pillar and blocks, then a right-leaning, widening crack to a ledge right of the flat-topped pillar. A 3m long grassy traverse right leads to the bottom of a long corner-groove system, terminating in a roof 40m above the ground. Climb this over bulge (VI-) to a small ledge on left (30m). Var: slightly harder but better. From just left of the two boulders climb to block on pedestal at 5m, then move right past a roof (VI) to bottom of the long corner; above rejoin the original line. Climb a thin crack right of ledge (VI) to roof, and from a peg in place traverse left to gain a groove left of roof (VI). Climb this to ledge on right (20m). Bridge up the corner on left (VI+) and pass a down-pointing flake to reach a ledge. Continue up the corner, strenuous layback (VI+), to a ledge on right (15m). Steep rock leads leftwards to an easy broken corner and the top (35m)."
This route starts about 30 ft left of The Magician. Located under a huge bird-shit covered dihedral about 1/2way up.