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Routes in Main Wall

Amazing Journey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Circle of Life T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Juggernaut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Magician T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Merlin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Olympian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C0
Razor's Edge, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stiletto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Iain Allan, Ian Howell
Page Views: 116 total · 5/month
Shared By: BigRed11 on May 8, 2016
Admins: BigRed11

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Description

Feel the magic.

1. Up into the tree.

2. Out right, up good cracks, to a sloping belay ledge on the right.

3. Traverse back left around a few corners to the large pale corner with pins and flakes.

4. Up this unlikely-looking corner, placing marginal gear and clipping old pins. Crux moves are getting across the blank face to a belay ledge on the left. I won't ruin the fun, but look all around you to find the right sequence.

Location

Up through the obvious white tree. Walk off to the campsite on the left side of Main Wall

Protection

Standard rack + micronuts

Photos

Only 3 stars??? I think this is a bit mean! Ian Howell and I made the first ascent of this route in the mid-70s, and I have repeated it many times since. I think it is one of the best routes on the Main Wall.


Iain Allan
Nairobi, 2017 Mar 29, 2017

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