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Routes in Main Wall

Amazing Journey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Circle of Life T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Juggernaut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Magician T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Merlin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Olympian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C0
Razor's Edge, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stiletto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Iain Allan, Ian Howell
Page Views: 126 total · 5/month
Shared By: BigRed11 on May 8, 2016
Admins: BigRed11

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2 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Feel the magic.

1. Up into the tree.

2. Out right, up good cracks, to a sloping belay ledge on the right.

3. Traverse back left around a few corners to the large pale corner with pins and flakes.

4. Up this unlikely-looking corner, placing marginal gear and clipping old pins. Crux moves are getting across the blank face to a belay ledge on the left. I won't ruin the fun, but look all around you to find the right sequence.

Location [Suggest Change]

Up through the obvious white tree. Walk off to the campsite on the left side of Main Wall

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack + micronuts

Photos

Only 3 stars??? I think this is a bit mean! Ian Howell and I made the first ascent of this route in the mid-70s, and I have repeated it many times since. I think it is one of the best routes on the Main Wall.


Iain Allan
Nairobi, 2017 Mar 29, 2017

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