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Routes in Main Wall

Amazing Journey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Circle of Life T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Juggernaut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Magician T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Merlin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Olympian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C0
Razor's Edge, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stiletto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shared By: BigRed11 on Nov 5, 2014
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Description

The main event at Hell's Gate: everything else is just practice. Main Wall has a plethora of multi-pitch routes, from 2 to 5 pitches, and all of them an adventure. The climbing is steep and exposed, and often dirty and loose: be willing to wade through vegetation and bird shit to get to the gems. Apart from Amazing Journey, this is not the place for beginners, so you should be prepared for a full-value climb when you hop on. Despite all of the difficulties, the good climbing is arguably the best in Kenya. Of course, brush up on your crack skills, though there are few long sustained and continuous cracks.

The bottom pitches are usually solid and difficult, while the top pitches are often very loose and crumbly. Keep your head on straight.

Plenty of aid climbs waiting to be freed.

For proper route descriptions, pick up a guidebook from the Mountain Club of Kenya. This is not the kind of place you want to get off-route or lost.

No bolted belays, some pins exist. Bailing means leaving gear, and storms come up suddenly in the afternoon during the rainy season. Very hot in the dry seasons.

Descent: All routes top out, except for the ones on Gold Rush Buttress. For routes on the left side of Main Wall, the walk off is to the left to the campsite. BE AWARE OF BUFFALO IN THE BUSH UP TOP AS YOU WALK OFF. Make noise! For routes on the right side, there is a large tree at the edge of the cliff on the right side that is equipped for abseil. It is 60 m of free-hanging rap, so make sure you have two ropes.

Getting There

Drive, taxi, or matatu to Hell's Gate through Naivasha and you can't miss it when you pull into the park.

8 Total Climbs

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