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Routes in Clear Creek Crag

12 Pack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
6 pack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dear Jim T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Devine Root S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Diagonal To Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Garbage Warrior S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Greasy Spoon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Head East S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Kept to Memory S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man with a Beard S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New World Order S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nuts and Honey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Phat and the Dope, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pinch, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Recyclable Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Recycler S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Root for Me S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandy River Blues T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scrub-a-Dub-Dub S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
She Keeps it on the Mantel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sifter V1 5
Slippery When Wet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Springfield Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steve-O S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Top Heavy TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trash Compactor S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trash Talk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trash.com S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Underling aka Jim's Route, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 538 total, 92/month
Shared By: Courtney Curtner on Jun 23, 2017
Admins: Courtney Curtner

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Description

Nice pockets and features at the bottom lead to a blank middle section crux where tiny crimps and good balance are needed to get further up the wall.

Location

Just left of 12 Pack (10c) on the Clearcreek Wall.

Protection

Bolts to Anchors

Photos

Delete the 10 c/d rating? Not sure why people would rate it that if they haven't climbed the route. Pretty sketchy lead for 5.10 climbers. Also, ignore the 1 star rating. Someone probably got spanked on this on TR. great route IMO. Sep 21, 2017
Alex Fox
Oberlin, OH
  5.12a
Alex Fox   Oberlin, OH
  5.12a
Gave this one a couple of tries today and yesterday, got pretty close! Getting to the third bolt is definitely a struggle; make sure you have enough gas not to blow the clip! Took quite a tumble on that. Being tall definitely helps with that. Highly recommended though. Sep 17, 2017
Thanks Jim! Great line and perfect bolt placements. "Kept to Memory" 12a. You can change the name to whatever since you bolted it. Aug 10, 2017
Nice to hear you got it. I believe it's FA. Feel free to name it. Thanks for the post and your welcome since I bolted it. Glad you enjoyed it. I figured the 3rd clip would be rough, not much feet there! Aug 10, 2017
Sent this today. Not sure if it has seen an FA yet. Better conditions than what my buddy who posted above experienced, but still not the best so it's hard to grade it. Definitely not 10+. Felt 12a? Great route and thanls for bolting it! Aug 9, 2017
Corona  
Crux doesn't feel easier than V5. The climb was damp and I'm weak as a kitten, but I could not do the crux moves. Scrubbed some intermediate slimpers, but I don't think I could do it without quite a bit of hang board training and a cold fall day. Cool climb, hard moves - still needs FA, I believe. Jul 8, 2017
The middle slab has spit off just about everybody. No FA yet as far as I know. Jun 26, 2017