Mad River Gorge & Nature Preserve Climbing
Elevation: | 953 ft | 290 m |
GPS: |
39.91448, -83.85988 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 450,911 total · 4,303/month | |
Shared By: | Dave Rock on Apr 28, 2016 · Updates | |
Admins: | Courtney Curtner |
Largest climbing area in Ohio
When visiting the Mad, please stop by the kiosk and sign into the visitors log. This will help the CCPD and OCC determine how many visitors are coming to the park.
Ohio Climbers Coalition
Though a lot of work has been done to cleanup and develop proper trails at the park, there is still more work to be done. The Ohio Climbers Coalition and Clark County Parks District are working together to improve the area, but they are always looking for volunteers willing to help in this project. If anyone is interested in volunteering their time, please visit the Ohio Climbers Coalition Website or the Ohio Climbers Coalition Facebook Page .
Getting There
Located in Springfield, Ohio off of Dayton- Springfield Road.
Please park in the paved parking lot at the front of the park and walk back towards the kiosk area.
If you are caught driving around the barrier and parking in the grassy area by the kiosk, the CCPD will ticket your car. Be respectful and park in the lot (and if the lot is full, park in the gravel overflow area by the road.
Camping
Buck Creek State Park (approximately 15 minutes away)
1976 Buck Creek Lane Springfield, Ohio 45502
Buck Creek State Park Camping Registration
John Bryan State Park (approximately 20 minutes away)
3790 Ohio 370 Yellow Springs, OH 45387
John Bryan State Park Camping Registration
Cleanup Efforts
The Ohio Climbers Coalition working alongside the Clark County Park District and Access Fund continues to work hard to cleanup this area. During the Adopt-a-Crag event in May 2017 at the Mad River Gorge, 125,000 pounds of trash and over 200 tires were removed from the MRG. Many trails were also constructed, but there is still a lot of work to be done in the area. Please make sure to do your part and pack out any personal trash from the area. There are buckets placed at various walls for those who would like to do their part to help pick up glass or other items while out at the crag. Once you fill a bucket, bring up back up to the top of the gorge so that it can be properly disposed of by the park district.
For those who are interested in volunteering, please visit the Ohio Climbers Coalition Facebook page or website for more information.
You can also see before and after videos of some of the cleanup here: Mad River Gorge: Main Trail Pre & Post Cleanup
Bolting
All route development at the Mad River Gorge is completed by the MRG Climbing Committee (part of the Ohio Climbers Coalition). They are in charge of all rebolting and new route development in the area, and maintain a data base of all routes to ensure that the bolts and anchors are safe for climbers. Some of the routes at the MRG were present before the park was opened to climbers in May 2017, and the OCC/ MRG Climbing Committee are working to ensure that all of these bolts are replaced with Wavebolts with the help of a grant from the Access Fund.
If you have ideas for new routes to be bolted or questions about routes that are already present, please contact the MRG Climbing Committee at: sgcc@ohioclimberscoalition.org .
Rules and Other Helpful Information
Stick clips are strongly suggested for all sport routes.
Practice the Leave No Trace principles and pack out all trash.
Stay on trails/ steps and avoid creating new footpaths through the natural vegetation.
If you see red tape on the first bolt of a route, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE. It has either been freshly bolted (and glue needs to dry) has no anchors, or is currently a closed project.
If you find a questionable bolt/ anchor, please mark the first bolt of the route (using tape, a stick through the bolt, etc.) and email the MRG Climbing Committee at: sgcc@ohioclimberscoalition.org to let them know of the questionable bolt/ anchor.
Classic Climbing Routes at Mad River Gorge & Nature Preserve
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