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Routes in Amusement Wall

Anxious Arrival V7 7A+
Bangarang S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Blind Spot V5 6C
CTB- Crazy Trailer Bitch S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Campus Ousside V4- 6B
Campus Traverse V3-4 6A+ PG13
Choss Direct V2-3 5+
Dry Route V5 6C
Easily Amused V1- 5- R
Hang Ten V5- 6C
Indoor v7 V7 7A+
It’s Medicinal V1 5
Knope We Can S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lukewarm Sausage V3 6A
Lunge or Plunge V5- 6C
Pocket Rocket V4 6B
Power Play V5- 6C
Project V9-10 7C+
Psychedelic Schoolteacher V3 6A
Rocktober Festival V3 6A
Scooby Doo S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Scrappy S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shaggy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Shimmy Shimmy Ya V0 4
Skull Crusher V6-7 7A+
Slappy McCracken S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slingshot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slot Machine V3-4 6A+
Sparky S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Starter Pack V1 5
Stella V8 7B
Tastes Like Burning S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teets, The V4+ 6B+
What just bit me V3 6A PG13
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Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Alex Nork, 04/29/18
Page Views: 507 total · 106/month
Shared By: Alex Nork on Apr 29, 2018
Admins: Courtney Curtner

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Description

Sit start under Shimmy Shimmy Ya on the far left of Amusement Wall. Traverse right and up to the outside lip of the cave. Continue to traverse along the lip to top out on Slot Machine.

Location

Left side of Amusement Wall

Protection

A few pads

Photos

I’ve worked on this a little and think the grades bout accurate- holds are good and such but it’s super physical movement and really core tensiony. maybe hard 5. May 1, 2018
Emeric Quade
Columbus, OH
  V5
Emeric Quade   Columbus, OH
  V5
Completely agree with your description there Kane (also it was nice to meet you at Veterans Park)! This climb took a ton of core strength and front lever strength (especially if you cut feet and want to continue). For me, it was also super endurance heavy (but I only boulder, so that might be my problem). It only took me a couple of sessions to figure out all the moves, but it took me months to finally string everything together. Definitely the longest I've ever projected a climb. Very curious to hear more people's opinion on grade. May 2, 2018
Brandon Gay
  V4-5
Brandon Gay  
  V4-5
Not bad holds, just long moves. Heel hooks help a lot on this problem, so does endurance. I flashed it and I rarely flash V5’s. It may be a hard V4 or soft V5 IMO Jul 7, 2018
Emeric Quade
Columbus, OH
  V5
Emeric Quade   Columbus, OH
  V5
Thanks for the comment Brandon! So funny that you all found this one easier than Dry Route and Lunge or Plunge.. those routes took me like 2 days to send and this one took me quite a while. I never sport climb, though, so i think my endurance was lacking and this one felt super hard because it's quite a bit longer than the average boulder problem. Thanks again for the input!!! Trying to get better at this grading thing. Jul 7, 2018
Emeric Quade
Columbus, OH
  V5
Emeric Quade   Columbus, OH
  V5
Looks like one of the slopers has broken and is now a jug. Definitely eliminates of the crux sequences. Could account for it feeling more like V4/5. Still think it goes at a softer 5 tho. Jul 12, 2018

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