Elevation: 905 ft
GPS: 39.915, -83.864 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 45,272 total · 1,667/month
Shared By: Courtney Curtner on Mar 7, 2018
Admins: Courtney Curtner

Description

The southside of the Mad River Gorge is well shaded by the many large trees in the area, and the Western Wetlands has a mix of walls for sport/ trad climbing and many great boulders as well. One main trail will lead you through the Western Wetlands, and smaller trails have been developed leading to Trash Shoot Area and some of the boulders. There are some historic sport routes on this part of the property that have been rebolted, and a lot of new development as well. Though lots of work has been done to cleanup the area, beware of broken glass, barbed wire, metal, and trash on this property when hiking around or climbing.

Getting There

From the parking lot, there are two ways to access the routes on the Western Wetlands. One option is to turn left at the kiosk and follow the path that exists between the farm land (which is private property so do not walk onto the farm) and trees. You will find some down paths into the gorge on the right. Option two is to walk past the kiosk and down the main stairwell. Take the main trail left and you'll start to see routes on the left. The first area you'll encounter is Ship Rock/Mike's Wall which will be on your left. About 100 feet past Ship Rock/Mike's Wall, there will be a well defined trail that will lead you down into the main portion of the Western Wetlands (where there is a lot of bouldering and Trash Shoot Area).

88 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at MRG Southwest (aka Western Wetlands)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 16
Feather Star
Boulder
V1 5
 4
Tinker Toes
Boulder
V2 5+
 13
Everything is Matter
Boulder
V2 5+
 14
Chundercling
Boulder
V2 5+
 3
Electric Boogaloo
Boulder
V3 6A
 9
Turd Burglar
Boulder
V3 6A R
 8
Gaston Bone
Boulder
V4 6B
 21
Shark Week
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Slug Buddy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Expectation Moderation
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Minime
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Left Eye
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Hellstrong
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Dr. Evil
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Digitalis
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Feather Star Rusty Ravine > Crinoid Cove
 16
V1 5 Boulder
Tinker Toes Block Yard Boul… > Tinkerbell Boulder
 4
V1 5 Boulder
Everything is Matter Rusty Ravine > Crinoid Cove
 13
V2 5+ Boulder
Chundercling Rusty Ravine > Crinoid Cove
 14
V2 5+ Boulder
Electric Boogaloo Power Line Boul… > Electric Avenue
 3
V2 5+ Boulder
Turd Burglar Rusty Ravine > Crinoid Cove
 9
V3 6A Boulder
Gaston Bone Rusty Ravine > Crinoid Cove
 8
V3 6A R Boulder
Shark Week Rusty Ravine > Crinoid Cove
 21
V4 6B Boulder
Slug Buddy Trash Shoot Area
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Expectation Moderation Trash Shoot Area
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Minime Mike's Wall (Formerly…
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Left Eye Trash Shoot Area
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Hellstrong Trash Shoot Area
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Dr. Evil Mike's Wall (Formerly…
 10
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Digitalis Trash Shoot Area
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in MRG Southwest (aka Western Wetlands) »

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