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Routes in Guide's Wall

Arete/Bulge S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flash Crack S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stand Off S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Crack S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Touch of Class S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: Ralph Showalter
Page Views: 336 total · 17/month
Shared By: Robert S on Apr 7, 2017
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

There presently are five bolted routes on Guide's Wall. Stand Off is the third as you go from left to right.

Until September 2016, this was a TR route using bolts located on a short wall above the top-out ledge, and it served as a sketchy trad lead as well. Now it has three bolts and sport anchors.

On at least one other website, this route is listed as a 5.5. It is not 5.5; the submitter likely confused this with Thin Crack (5.5 here but 5.6 in the guidebook), and a new leader may very well find himself in way over his head if he jumps on it thinking it is 5.5.

The crux is an awkward sequence from the second bolt to the third. Even people solid at the grade find this challenging and a bit heady. The moves to the anchors can be tough as well unless/until you find an excellent hidden jug.

In the photo, the rope is set on Thin Crack. Stand Off is just to the right. This picture was taken before the routes were bolted.

Location

To access the toprope anchors if you don't want to lead on this wall, walk to the right past the end of the wall and find a use trail climbing up and then traversing back to the anchors. There is a Class 5 shortcut by a "cave" if the fall risk is worth saving a couple minutes. The use trail can get pretty brushy.

There also is a 5.6 access to the left of the wall; I will not describe it lest I be seen as encouraging people to scramble up it.

Protection

3 bolts, sport anchors.

Photos

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