Connect with Facebook
Routes in Guide's Wall
|
April Fool T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
Arete/Bulge S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Bulge Right TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Flash Crack S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Stand Off S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Steep Bulge TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Thin Crack S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Touch of Class S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Worm TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Ralph Showalter |
| Page Views: | 1,119 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Robert S on Apr 7, 2017 with 4 Suggestions |
| Admins: | Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, mattm |
Your Star Rating:
Description
There presently are five bolted routes on Guide's Wall. Stand Off is the third as you go from left to right.
Until September 2016, this was a TR route using bolts located on a short wall above the top-out ledge, and it served as a sketchy trad lead as well. Now it has three bolts and sport anchors.
On at least one other website, this route is listed as a 5.5. It is not 5.5; the submitter likely confused this with Thin Crack (once 5.5 here but 5.6 in the guidebook), and a new leader may very well find himself in way over his head if he jumps on it thinking it is 5.5.
The crux is an awkward sequence from the third bolt to a great jug below the anchors. Moving between B2 and B3 also gives some people trouble. In the photo, the rope is set on Thin Crack. Stand Off is just to the right. This picture was taken before the routes were bolted.
The newest edition of the guidebook downgraded this route to 5.6/5.7. I disagree with that, but we'll see what the community says in the long run. In fact, I feel many of the Greenbelt routes could be bumped up at least a grade due to the polish, which is definitely a factor on some climbs.
Location
There also is a 5.6 access to the left of the wall; I will not describe it lest I be seen as encouraging people to scramble up it.
0 Comments