Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: John Sanders/Lauren Clayton
Page Views: 1,788 total · 37/month
Shared By: Robert S on Apr 7, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Hank Caylor, mattm, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

Presently, there are five bolted routes on Guide's Wall. This is the one farthest left.

There are actually several ways to do this route:

5.7 (Arete)-- Climb the face to the roof below the cave and pull up onto the big ledge next to the cave. Finish on the arete. Many think that this feels harder than 5.7.

5.9 (Arete direct)-- Instead of stepping onto the huge ledge and then back onto the arete, go straight up from the third bolt. Opinions of this grade range from 5.8+ to 5.10a.

5.10a (Bulge Lite)-- Pull up into the cave and traverse left onto the arete to finish.

5.10b (Bulge)-- Pull the cave to the anchors.

The bolt placements seem to suggest the 5.7 or 5.9 in mind.

For extra fun, clip one of the anchors and then top out, using older chain anchors up above as your anchors. To avoid a potential backclipping-like situation, put a draw on one of the anchor bolts instead of using the sport anchors. The topout moves are fun and make the route 5.10a or b for sure. If you do this, I recommend rapping off; lowering from there or belaying a second from there will have the rope moving over a sharp edge.

Although this is a bolted route, there are older bolts up above for toprope anchors. Walk to the right past the wall and find a rugged, brushy use trail that leads up and back to the top. Or lead one of the easier routes on the wall and top out.

Protection

4 bolts and sport anchors.

Photos