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Crackhead Anonymous
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Mike Simpson |
Page Views: | 1,261 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | mikeerocks on Apr 1, 2017 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
When I first found this route I was instantly inspired, it was a roadside crack, why had it not been climbed before? Then the cleaning started, and when I was finished was impressed to find a route that has some serious potential.
start by climbing in obvious crack next to a bolt, skip these next few bolts until you reach the top of the ledge...this is where the fun begins,either stick clip this bolt or be ready to take a fall if you dont stick the first move correctly. After the first bolt cruise way through as you start plugin gear for the next 70 ft. small holds, some crack climbing stemming and one awesome layback get you to the last bolt. Be ready here because the style of the climb changes quick, the anchor is guarded by a hidden hold that will ruin your onsight!
start by climbing in obvious crack next to a bolt, skip these next few bolts until you reach the top of the ledge...this is where the fun begins,either stick clip this bolt or be ready to take a fall if you dont stick the first move correctly. After the first bolt cruise way through as you start plugin gear for the next 70 ft. small holds, some crack climbing stemming and one awesome layback get you to the last bolt. Be ready here because the style of the climb changes quick, the anchor is guarded by a hidden hold that will ruin your onsight!
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