All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Day Canyon > Priapism Pillar

Total Eclipse

Name: Total Eclipse
Rating: 3.0

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in Priapism Pillar

L › R R › L A › Z

	Brown Eye of Sauron T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Happily Ever Shafter S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Road Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Total Eclipse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Total Eclipse of the Shart T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Wiley Cryote T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA:	Evan Wisheropp
Page Views:	721 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Evan Wisheropp on Mar 25, 2017
Admins:	slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

Alternate finish variation to the Total Eclipse of the Shart if you get up there and the traverse puckers you up. Also a great way to rig a TR on Happily Ever Shafter as they share an anchor. The finish requires long slings and some creativity.

Protection

Bring the same rack as the Total Eclipse of the Shart, minus the #5. Add in a Blue Big Bro with a sling if you don't want to be run out on the stemming finish.