Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 833 total · 15/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Mar 25, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This is a very unique route. Can I give it four stars?? Start in a dihedral hidden behind the pillar and climb up an ever changing crack system. Those looking for IC style splitters should continue on, the crack is ever changing and it is impossible to get a "flow" going. Awesome! After a small roof a downward flaring chimney comes into reach on your right, the route traverses through this flaring chimney passing three bolts and finishes with ten feet of moderate offwidth out on the other side. Those who go ripping out the bottom of the crack are affectionately referred to as "The Shart"

You'll need a 70m rope to lower off, otherwise you can rap with a 60m if you belay from the top. You can prevent any rope drag and have your rope running straight on the traverse by extending your clips on the traverse bolts appropriately; 48", 24", 12", then 3". Clip the bolt before the anchors super short (3") to keep your rope running smoothly past the solid chockstone.

I've climbed this route about six times now and have loved it every time, it really makes you think. Enjoy!


.5 x2
.75 x3
#1 x2
#2 x1
#3 x2
#4 x1
#5 x2
many slings
one 3" draw