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Routes in Day In Day Pillar (aka, Priapism Pillar)

Happily Ever Shafter S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Road Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Total Eclipse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Total Eclipse of the Shart T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiley Cryote T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 429 total · 28/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Mar 25, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This wild route climbs the gap between the left side of the pillar and the main wall. It begins with a tricky downward flare, climbs a unique "chimney" between two aretes, then continues on with an ever widening chimney. A 60m rope barely reaches the ground.

The physical crux is just getting past the first bolt where you may want to sit on someone's shoulders to pre-clip it. The rock is a bit silty there, but is immediately perfectly clean above there. The mental crux comes at reaching the 8th bolt, which is not as hard or scary as it looks. Go for it!

This route was bolted on lead with big hefty powers bolts. I've led the route again since and must say it is an absolute pleasure!

Location [Suggest Change]

The upper half of the route can be identified by the trail by a giant chockstone on the left side of the pillar. Remember to find the trail hiking up to the pillar to minimize impact.

Protection [Suggest Change]

9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

A note on the grade, taller folks will find it easier, while shorter folks will find the crux section much longer, and perhaps a bit spicy at the crux. The route is definitely a step up in difficulty and commitment from the Boognish Pillar. Apr 10, 2017

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