Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 586 total · 28/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Mar 25, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This wild route climbs the gap between the left side of the pillar and the main wall. It begins with a tricky downward flare, climbs a unique "chimney" between two aretes, then continues on with an ever widening chimney. A 60m rope barely reaches the ground.

The physical crux is just getting past the first bolt where you may want to sit on someone's shoulders to pre-clip it. The rock is a bit silty there, but is immediately perfectly clean above there. The mental crux comes at reaching the 8th bolt, which is not as hard or scary as it looks. Go for it!

This route was bolted on lead with big hefty powers bolts. I've led the route again since and must say it is an absolute pleasure!

Location

The upper half of the route can be identified by the trail by a giant chockstone on the left side of the pillar. Remember to find the trail hiking up to the pillar to minimize impact.

Protection

9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
Evan Wisheropp
  5.11-
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.11-
A note on the grade, taller folks will find it easier, while shorter folks will find the crux section much longer, and perhaps a bit spicy at the crux. The route is definitely a step up in difficulty and commitment from the Boognish Pillar. Apr 10, 2017
Ryan Duever
  5.11a X
Ryan Duever  
  5.11a X
Do not climb this route if you are not prepared to rappel. Lowering will not work for climbers above 170 lbs, as the anchor system is actually lower than the ridge on the inside, causing a great amount of friction on the rope. I actually stopped entirely on my decent, and had to climb the last 20ish feet again to the top on a slack rope to replace my anchor system to reduce friction on my decent. Also, the top of this route is significantly easier for tall people, but the beginning I found to be significantly harder as the bottom gap is only about 3 feet. Nov 27, 2018
Evan Wisheropp
  5.11-
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.11-
Hmm, I'm thoroughly confused at your post. We've had several of us climb the route, lead and lower (several times) and we've never noticed any rope drag or friction at all. It honestly sounds like user error. Did you twist the chains?

Looking at my the other photos, I can't see anywhere where the rope would be rubbing, especially where someone over a certain weight would be more affected. Also, there is absolutely no reason for a two rope rappel. "Lower than the ridge on the inside?" I don't know what this means. Maybe somebody moved my anchor?? I just uploaded a few new photos that shows the anchor and a fixed line (for photos), please tell me what you see that supposedly frictioned your rope!

It's a bummer to see some silly user error drop the quality grade of this epic line and deter other people from having as much fun as we all did. It may not be a direct line straight up, but it really was not difficult to lower and retrieve the draws, and it was especially easy to have someone follow the route to clean it. I don't see many Moab ticks on your page, are you newer to desert climbing?

EDIT: On second thought, this all sounds far too invented and separate from reality, I suspect I am being trolled... Ryan D. = Ryan K. ? Nov 27, 2018