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Routes in Day In Day Pillar (aka, Priapism Pillar)

Happily Ever Shafter S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Road Runner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Total Eclipse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Total Eclipse of the Shart T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiley Cryote T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 83 total · 5/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Mar 25, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Squigling crack with tight #5s featuring calf locks and the occasional tight knee. Begin in an easy chimney with .4-.75 for pro and then work up the squiggles with several #5s. I imagine someone with smaller knees could avoid the calf locks and find the grade much easier. Find the kneebar rest and finish on nice overhanging hands.

Location

150' right of the pillar. The crack is nearly impossible to see until you are past it.

Protection

.4-.75
#2-4
#5 (x3-4)

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