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Total Eclipse
5.10+,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Potash Rd
> Day Canyon
> Priapism Pillar
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Alternate finish variation to the Total Eclipse of the Shart if you get up there and the traverse puckers you up. Also a great way to rig a TR on Happily Ever Shafter as they share an anchor. The finish requires long slings and some creativity.
Protection
Bring the same rack as the Total Eclipse of the Shart, minus the #5. Add in a Blue Big Bro with a sling if you don't want to be run out on the stemming finish.
![Start of Total Eclipse and Total Eclipse of the Shart]()
[Hide Photo] Start of Total Eclipse and Total Eclipse of the Shart
![Skipping the traverse and continuing up to the Happily Ever Shafter anchors is a good way to bail on the wild chimney/offwidth traverse.]()
[Hide Photo] Skipping the traverse and continuing up to the Happily Ever Shafter anchors is a good way to bail on the wild chimney/offwidth traverse.
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