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Routes in 1 Sunset Rock

Climbs Left of Nor'easter T,TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Early Show T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Evil Spirits T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Le Coq d'Or T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Nor'easter T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Old Memories T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Mike La[pierre, Bill Sulivan and Bob Clark Apr 1978
Page Views: 51 total · 5/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Mar 22, 2017
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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3-stars as a TR

Start on the face about 10 ft left and uphill from the arete. Climb the face, traverse right on a horizontal crack (Var) and up the ending crack.

Var - "Fingerstorm" 5.9+ - Continue up the diagonal crack (FA Nichols, June 1980)


TR or Std Rack I can't remember whether I led or TR'd this.
Nichols had this as a 5.6 in the "Green Book", at which time (1980) it was the first climb on the cliff.


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