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Routes in 1 Sunset Rock

Climbs Left of Nor'easter T,TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Early Show T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Evil Spirits T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Le Coq d'Or T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Nor'easter T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Old Memories T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
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Elevation: 669 ft
GPS: 41.659, -72.842 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 696 total · 41/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Mar 22, 2017
Admins: Morgan Patterson
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This is the northern-most crag on Bradley Mtn, thus I've named it "01___"

It is home to one of the few free-standing pinnacles in the Northeast. Nichols lists some 59 routes on Sunset Crag in his "Blue Book", while the 1st ed. "Green Book" has diagrams which should be helpful for locating climbs.

This outcrop has been climbed on since the 1930's; however, since View Road and its houses went in the area has fallen into disuse. (DO NOT ACCESS by parking on View Road.)

There's some broken glass from the "natives", and ratings are a bit "old School". I'd visit Sunrise rock first; much cleaner, although there are some worthy routes on Sunset.

Getting There

Park on Ledge Road, about 1/2 mile south of View Rd. where there's a very small pull-out on the west side. (alternately, park at the Plainville Reservoir parking; see Fire Wall for instructions on obtaining parmit; and walk back north on Ledge Rd to the trailhead.

Look on the east side of the road for the path; there may be a bit of wetness crossing the drainage ditch.

See "Bradley Mtn Sketch Map": Hike up the path, which shortly makes a 90-degree turn left, then 90-degree right and climbs up somewhat steeply. When the path flattens out, look for a less worn path that crosses at 90-degrees. Take this to the left (north) past a small pond, and continue on to the crag.

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Mobes Mobesely
Granite island
Mobes Mobesely   Granite island
Take note that these descriptions are completely sandbagged and have nothing to do with modern understanding of "standard trad rack". Most of the routes have almost no gear that will hold. Aug 6, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
T Roper makes good two points - but they apply to most of CT Traprock.

Re' Grades: These were given in the late 1960's to early 1980's and are definitely "old school". Also, in the Nichol's guidebooks he writes [to the effect] "...and the grade is how the route can be climbed once you figure out the move sequence." Un-said is "how hard it may feel while you're working out this sequence."

Re' Protection: As noted in the individual descriptions, many climbs are "R" and or "X" rated. Remember also that these ratings are a best guess determination of how likely you are to get injured if you fall...not how long the fall is. (as is sometimes thought)

When I lived in CT (1986 - 2012) bolts were consistently chopped...I don't know how it is today. Aug 7, 2017
The ambiance here leaves something to be desired. Between the industrial groaning and clanking and the constant roar of the highway I felt like I was on the island on Lost. Oct 6, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Bryce...glad you persevered, and thanks for the photos. It's a pretty much a "Been there once!" sort of place. Like I said: "I'd visit Sunrise first." Oct 6, 2017

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