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Routes in 1 Sunset Rock

Climbs Left of Nor'easter T,TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Early Show T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Evil Spirits T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Le Coq d'Or T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Nor'easter T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Old Memories T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Nichols & Ghiggeri, June 1980
Page Views: 48 total · 3/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Mar 23, 2017
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Description [Edit]

This is route #22 in the "Blue Book".

Walking along the base from climber's left you pass a scree "fan" (Ken's word) and then a cave. The "left-facing corner capped by a roof" about 35 ft right of the cave is the climb Fowl Mouth 5.6 (2-stars in Ken's book).

The arete a few feet further right is Le Coq d'Or.
START on the left side of the arete and finish on the right.

Protection [Edit]

"X" means very little or TR it. My notes read: " X ! YES! and even the 5.4 seemed 5.6!"


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