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Routes in 1 Sunset Rock

Climbs Left of Nor'easter T,TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Early Show T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Evil Spirits T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Le Coq d'Or T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Nor'easter T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Old Memories T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Nichols & Ghiggeri, June 1980
Page Views: 40 total · 4/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Mar 23, 2017
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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This is route #22 in the "Blue Book".

Walking along the base from climber's left you pass a scree "fan" (Ken's word) and then a cave. The "left-facing corner capped by a roof" about 35 ft right of the cave is the climb Fowl Mouth 5.6 (2-stars in Ken's book).

The arete a few feet further right is Le Coq d'Or.
START on the left side of the arete and finish on the right.


"X" means very little or TR it. My notes read: " X ! YES! and even the 5.4 seemed 5.6!"


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