Addicted to Bad Ideas
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
| Type: | TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 41.14581, -74.16484 |
| FA: | TR Justin Richardson |
| Page Views: | 837 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Feb 10, 2017 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Work up to find a crack which is close under the right side of the roof. Pull the roof, then easier to the top.
. . (If you find you're "getting stuck" on this one, likely you'll have more fun if you "work with" the next career route to its right).
So far seems like just a "one move wonder". Perhaps would be better as a route if it had a more direct start - ? see Photo ?
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Protection
Top-Rope: See Career Guides area page for ideas how to reach top of cliff.
Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
So far as of 2016, this route has been climbed only on top-rope.




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