Type: Trad, TR, 55 ft (17 m)
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 327 total · 7/month
Shared By: kenr on Feb 25, 2017 · Updates
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


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Description

Wanders around through some interesting features, above and below several roofs, while avoiding going directly up through any of them.

Scramble up onto the left end of the obvious ramp trending up right-ward. But rather than go up on the ramp, keep feet below the ramp and traverse horizontally a long ways to the right (with a balancy move of two) ... pass under the obvious left-facing chimney, below the larger high prow (and above the smaller low prow), until reach the base of the smaller chimney on the right side of the high prow.

Up on the chimney, but instead of going up through its top, step left about five feet onto the big prow and up that, then easier slab to the top.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Slightly right of center under the obvious big roof. Under the left (low) end of a ramp that trends up right-ward to the base of an obvious left-facing chimney which is on the left side of a high prow.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection

Trad: Standard rack.  R-rated.  Extremely difficult, perhaps impossible to protect a second on the traverse, as any placements in this section are nearly at your ankles.  A better option might be to have your belayer drag a crash pad along the base until you pass the chimney and get to the right side of the prow.  The follower can climb straight up from this point.  Lots of loose blocks at the top of the small chimney.  A #5 or #6 would be helpful here - a #4 will work but it's a tougher reach to place it.

Top-Rope: The obvious tree anchor points above are far back from the top edge of the cliff here, so need a long static line to set up top anchor -- or some cleverness.

- - > See Career Guides area page for ideas how to reach top of cliff.

Photos

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