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Routes in Right Wall

Bruzer Head S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crackamite T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double Decker T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I'm Your Huckleberry T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Line of Fire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Matchbook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over The Edge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Brian Spiewak
Page Views: 262 total · 13/month
Shared By: Will H. on Feb 5, 2017
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Matchbook is the prominent crack on the lower dihedral and can serve as a great approach pitch to Crackamite above. I have seen this route listed at both 5.8 and 5.9. I would personally lean more toward the latter rating, but I am no hardman.

There is a nice mix of wide/OW, hand jams, and face climbing next to the crack. Around 100 feet up, after a last bit of traversing, there is an anchor on the face just below a large, bushy ledge system. Optionally, one can continue onto the ledge - we used an anchor about 25 feet up and to the left.

Location

Far right side in the lower dihedral.

Protection

Gear to 4". Bolted anchor.

Photos

Lou Cerutti
Carlsbad, California
5.9-
Lou Cerutti   Carlsbad, California
5.9-
This was a fun pitch with cool features that serves well to approach the routes leading off grassy ledge, as mentioned above. Not quite worthy of the infamous 5.8+ rating so I'll go with 5.9- bring some gardening tools! Placing gear and fighting the grass while laybacking the wide section seemed to provide most the difficulties. Feb 5, 2017

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