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California
> San Diego County
> S San Diego County
> El Cajon Mountain
> Wedge
> Right Wall
Matchbook
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.2 from 5
votes
Routes in Right Wall
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Bruzer Head S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cousins Direct T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Crackamite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Double Decker T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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I'm Your Huckleberry T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Last Chance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Line of Fire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Matchbook T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Over The Edge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Primos del Fuego S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 32.90499, -116.81671 |
| FA: | Brian Spiewak |
| Page Views: | 1,303 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Little Billy on Feb 5, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Advisory
Details
Please avoid raptor nests. El Cajon Mountain- Golden Eagles nested successfully at this site in 2009, after relocating twice between alternate nest sites. The Golden Eagle nest at El Cajon Mountain was not successful in Spring 2010. This nest was successful and fledged young in 2011 - 2021. Details from USFS posted here: fs.usda.gov/detail/clevelan…
The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
Description
Matchbook is the prominent crack on the lower dihedral and can serve as a great approach pitch to Crackamite above. I have seen this route listed at both 5.8 and 5.9. I would personally lean more toward the latter rating, but I am no hardman.
There is a nice mix of wide/OW, hand jams, and face climbing next to the crack. Around 100 feet up, after a last bit of traversing, there is an anchor on the face just below a large, bushy ledge system. Optionally, one can continue onto the ledge - we used an anchor about 25 feet up and to the left.
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