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Routes in Right Wall

Bruzer Head S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackamite T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double Decker T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holey Moley S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I'm Your Huckleberry T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Line of Fire S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matchbook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Place To Hide T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Edge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Brian Spiewak
Page Views: 211 total · 17/month
Shared By: Will H. on Feb 5, 2017
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Matchbook is the prominent crack on the lower dihedral and can serve as a great approach pitch to Crackamite above. I have seen this route listed at both 5.8 and 5.9. I would personally lean more toward the latter rating, but I am no hardman.

There is a nice mix of wide/OW, hand jams, and face climbing next to the crack. Around 100 feet up, after a last bit of traversing, there is an anchor on the face just below a large, bushy ledge system. Optionally, one can continue onto the ledge - we used an anchor about 25 feet up and to the left.


Far right side in the lower dihedral.


Gear to 4". Bolted anchor.


Lou Cerutti
Carlsbad, California
Lou Cerutti   Carlsbad, California
This was a fun pitch with cool features that serves well to approach the routes leading off grassy ledge, as mentioned above. Not quite worthy of the infamous 5.8+ rating so I'll go with 5.9- bring some gardening tools! Placing gear and fighting the grass while laybacking the wide section seemed to provide most the difficulties. Feb 5, 2017

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