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Routes in Right Wall

Bruzer Head S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackamite T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double Decker T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I'm Your Huckleberry T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Line of Fire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Matchbook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over The Edge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Brian Spiewak
Page Views: 245 total · 16/month
Shared By: Will H. on Feb 5, 2017
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description [Edit]

Matchbook is the prominent crack on the lower dihedral and can serve as a great approach pitch to Crackamite above. I have seen this route listed at both 5.8 and 5.9. I would personally lean more toward the latter rating, but I am no hardman.

There is a nice mix of wide/OW, hand jams, and face climbing next to the crack. Around 100 feet up, after a last bit of traversing, there is an anchor on the face just below a large, bushy ledge system. Optionally, one can continue onto the ledge - we used an anchor about 25 feet up and to the left.

Location [Edit]

Far right side in the lower dihedral.

Protection [Edit]

Gear to 4". Bolted anchor.

Photos

Lou Cerutti
Carlsbad, California
5.9-
Lou Cerutti   Carlsbad, California
5.9-
This was a fun pitch with cool features that serves well to approach the routes leading off grassy ledge, as mentioned above. Not quite worthy of the infamous 5.8+ rating so I'll go with 5.9- bring some gardening tools! Placing gear and fighting the grass while laybacking the wide section seemed to provide most the difficulties. Feb 5, 2017

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