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Routes in Right Wall

Bruzer Head S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crackamite T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double Decker T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I'm Your Huckleberry T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Line of Fire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Matchbook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over The Edge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Randy Leavitt, with help from Brian Spiewak, Zach Gelbart, Glenn Svenson, Chris Hubbard, Mike Matelich (2013)
Page Views: 1,680 total · 28/month
Shared By: Leavittator on Nov 23, 2013
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

I'm Your Huckleberry has been called the best 5.13 in the San Diego area by some. Approach the base by climbing Bruzer Head (5.8 sport) to anchors on the roomy grassy ledge. From here continue up Crackamite (5.10d), protecting with a variety of cams from aliens to #2 Camalots. Halfway up Crackamite, head right up the steep headwall protected by bolts. The variety of moves you do to the chains is wonderful. The crux is 15 feet below the chains where you must do a powerful bouldering Gaston sequence. Taller climbers will be able to reach past the powerful gaston moves here, rendering the climb easier than 13b. In any case, it is a wonderful climb. Best to do this in the spring time in the morning shade, or afternoon shade. During the short winter days, wait for a colder day as it is in the sun then.

Location

starts on Crackamite (5.10d) and finished independently up and right following bolts.
Lower down from anchors to clean, or lower down then top rope to clean gear, then lower back down (better)
This climb follows the huge left facing corner above Line Of Fire on the right side of the main El Cajon Mountain cliff.

Protection

1 each Aliens - green, yellow, red
1 each C4s - purple
2 each C4s - red
3 each C4s - gold
at least 6 long slings on your lower cams to reduce rope drag
70M rope
3 bolt anchor at the summit

Photos

Leavittator
  5.13b
Leavittator  
  5.13b
second ascent by Josh Higgins and third ascent by Mike Maiden Nov 23, 2013
Leavittator
  5.13b
Leavittator  
  5.13b
Here is some good beta on the moves: vimeo.com/65510053 Nov 23, 2013
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Congratulations...a hell of a good job, Randy. Looks like an amazing route. May 30, 2016

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