REI Community
Right Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bruzer Head S 
Crackamite T 
Double Decker T,S 
I'm Your Huckleberry T 
Line of Fire S 
Matchbook T 
No Place To Hide T,S 
Over The Edge S 
Unsorted Routes:

Crackamite 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Brian Spiewak, Jim Smith, James Barnett, Ted Doughty
Page Views: 2,328
Submitted By: mschlocker on Feb 2, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
A bolt protects the last few moves exiting the cor...

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A very nice left facing dihedral hand crack with an overhangning right wall. There are sections with poor feet or poor hands but rarely both simultaneously. The crux comes high up once you start to get tired.

The route has it all from delicate face climbing to chimneying (so say the scratches on my right shoulder) but the majority is a really nice hand crack.

Location 

Starts from the right side of the Holey Moley ledge. Obvious left facing dihedral.

Protection 

Protects really well with cams 3/8" to 4". A lot of cams in the #2 C4 range are useful. Slings and quickdraws for the nature of the route.


Photos of Crackamite Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just for fun.  This route used to not exist until ...
Just for fun. This route used to not exist until ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Before the tough sections of Crackamite.  You can ...
Before the tough sections of Crackamite. You can ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crack-a-mite
Crack-a-mite
Rock Climbing Photo: Crackamite is the crack in the corner.
Crackamite is the crack in the corner.

Comments on Crackamite Add Comment
Show which comments
By bspiewak
Nov 2, 2013

The dihedral is actually ~115' long. There is an anchor/rap at a 90' stance and another at the top of the corner (no stance). It's absolutely worth climbing through to the end. Clip the 115' anchor and lower to the 90' anchor/stance, belay your partner up from there, lower them to the ground and do one rappel back to the large dirt ledge.

And it's best approached by climbing the other striking 115' dihedral below it, Matchbook. Or Bruzer Head as Randy suggests, just avoid running your rope through the dirt at the edge of the ledge.
By Leavittator
Nov 23, 2013

or approach by the bolted slab, Bruzer Head (5.7)
By ForrestMB
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 8, 2014

Such a great route! It provided enough respite from the sun on a hot August afternoon to boot. Thanks for work on this one gentlemen! And I took bspiewak's advice on clipping the anchor but climbing to the very top and it was well worth it! I couldn't imagine what it was like trying to climb it when that large flake was sitting up there!
By Lou Cerutti
From: Carlsbad, California
Feb 6, 2017

Best or most fun single pitch of crack climbing in San Diego? Crackamite has my vote. Gather all the #2's you find and go for it! We opted to belay from a single bolt at the base of the corner. This wasn't ideal but the next set of anchors were quite far away and the options for a gear belay from the ledge were not great. A slung block maybe? Definitely worth it to climb to the second set of anchors. Save a .4 C4 or equivalent to protect the moves getting there if you're pumped like i was. The lower off carabiner was seized up so I left a new to fascilitate a quick clip. Rap from the 90' anchor mentioned just barely makes it to ledge with a 60m

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About