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Routes in Right Wall

Bruzer Head S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackamite T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double Decker T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I'm Your Huckleberry T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Line of Fire S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matchbook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Place To Hide T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Edge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Brian Spiewak, Jim Smith, James Barnett, Ted Doughty
Page Views: 2,456 total, 42/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Feb 2, 2013
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

A very nice left facing dihedral hand crack with an overhangning right wall. There are sections with poor feet or poor hands but rarely both simultaneously. The crux comes high up once you start to get tired.

The route has it all from delicate face climbing to chimneying (so say the scratches on my right shoulder) but the majority is a really nice hand crack.

Location

Starts from the right side of the Holey Moley ledge. Obvious left facing dihedral.

Protection

Protects really well with cams 3/8" to 4". A lot of cams in the #2 C4 range are useful. Slings and quickdraws for the nature of the route.
Lou Cerutti
Carlsbad, California
 
Lou Cerutti   Carlsbad, California
 
Best or most fun single pitch of crack climbing in San Diego? Crackamite has my vote. Gather all the #2's you find and go for it! We opted to belay from a single bolt at the base of the corner. This wasn't ideal but the next set of anchors were quite far away and the options for a gear belay from the ledge were not great. A slung block maybe? Definitely worth it to climb to the second set of anchors. Save a .4 C4 or equivalent to protect the moves getting there if you're pumped like i was. The lower off carabiner was seized up so I left a new to fascilitate a quick clip. Rap from the 90' anchor mentioned just barely makes it to ledge with a 60m Feb 6, 2017
ForrestMB
Fort Collins, CO
 
ForrestMB   Fort Collins, CO
 
Such a great route! It provided enough respite from the sun on a hot August afternoon to boot. Thanks for work on this one gentlemen! And I took bspiewak's advice on clipping the anchor but climbing to the very top and it was well worth it! I couldn't imagine what it was like trying to climb it when that large flake was sitting up there! Nov 8, 2014
Leavittator  
 
or approach by the bolted slab, Bruzer Head (5.7) Nov 23, 2013
bspiewak  
 
The dihedral is actually ~115' long. There is an anchor/rap at a 90' stance and another at the top of the corner (no stance). It's absolutely worth climbing through to the end. Clip the 115' anchor and lower to the 90' anchor/stance, belay your partner up from there, lower them to the ground and do one rappel back to the large dirt ledge.

And it's best approached by climbing the other striking 115' dihedral below it, Matchbook. Or Bruzer Head as Randy suggests, just avoid running your rope through the dirt at the edge of the ledge. Nov 2, 2013