Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft|
|Page Views:||274 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Marcus Floyd on Jan 30, 2017|
|Admins:||Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug|
Access Issue: Private Property; Battress Wall is currently closed to climbers Details
Currently, as of 2017, the Battress Wall, located along Providence North, is not open to climbers. The previous land developer, which was aware of climbers and provided a verbalized ok to climbing access, pasted away. The current developer and owner does not currently want climbers accessing the cliff line. Providence Main Wall and Providence South Wall is open to climbers accessing the cliff line along the property line and the owner is aware of climbers. Please respect private property and stay along the property line and cliffs.
Cheater Stone is an interesting line that offers a couple different starting options. The slightly easier start begins on top of a large boulder that leans against the bottom of the rock face. Reach high to access the flake layback crack. Feel free to place a small cam for protecting the first few moves below the first bolt. The route continues up and left along a series of underclings and smears. Below the second bolt use the large jug if you wish to clip high. Next is the crux. Use a vertical edge to layback left, to gain the next horizontal edge. Small feet allow you to reach a positive left pinch turns into a great gaston jug to make the clip. Continue up to the two bolt, quick clip, rap anchors.
Cheater Stone is located on the left end of the crag. This is the last face, or furthest North exposure along the Battress Area exposure. Look for the large leaning boulder and vertical, arrow-shaped flake to find the two start option. 1) Start on the left side of the flake, climbing up using a few large pockets to gain the a couple small cam placements. Continue up and right, on the flake, to access the first bolt. 2) Start on top of the boulder, at the right hand base of the flake, place a small cam and move up and left onto the flake to access the first bolt.