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Ruby Ray Mystery
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
Routes in 4. Adventure Stories
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Foundation’s Edge T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Good Soldier Schweik TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hidden Staircase, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Interstellar T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mother Night T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Northwest Passage T,TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Odyssey, The T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Riders of the Purple Sage TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Ruby Ray Mystery T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Second Foundation TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Starship Troopers TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Where the Wild Things Are T,TR 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 41.14635, -74.16702 |
| FA: | Mark Barahman, December 2016 |
| Page Views: | 1,939 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Nov 26, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Lots of fun + thoughtful moves much on big holds. Even more if add Variation 1 from same (or nearby) top anchor (but need protection against dangerous side-swing if climber falls on that)
Up the chimney over the chockstones and/or big moves on good holds on the steep wall on the side of the chimney.
. . Variation 1 fun interesting: Start left in the big deep alcove, up a little, then hand-traverse R into chimney. (5.7+) (need protection directional)
Up the corner and crack. Finish straight over roof.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
Overhanging chimney with two big chockstones about 6-8 feet right of big deep alcove.
- - > See on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo
Protection
Protection for Trad leading: Standard rack to 2 inches. See Comments below.
For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Adventure Stories sector.
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