Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Mark B - (TR Ken R + Karel Hrbacek)
Page Views: 589 total · 22/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 26, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route


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Description

Lots of fun + thoughtful moves much on big holds. Even more if add Variation 1 from same (or nearby) top anchor (but need protection against dangerous side-swing if climber falls on that)

Up the chimney over the chockstones and/or big moves on good holds on the steep wall on the side of the chimney.

. . Variation 1 fun interesting: Start left in the big deep alcove, up a little, then hand-traverse R into chimney. (5.7+) (need protection directional)

Up the corner and crack. Finish straight over roof.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Overhanging chimney with two big chockstones about 6-8 feet right of big deep alcove.

- - > See on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo

Protection

Protection for Trad leading: Standard rack to 2 inches. See Comments below.

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Adventure Stories sector.

Photos

Systematic
  5.8 PG13
Systematic  
  5.8 PG13
I led this today. It's 5.8PG. Protection is G after getting to the ledge, but the chimney is unprotected. Maybe you could sling one of the chockstones? It takes Medium cams and med-large nuts. The rock at the top of the corner crack + along the arete is very brittle. Dec 2, 2016