Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts + Karel Hrbacek
Page Views: 506 total · 8/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 26, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, SMarsh

You & This Route


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Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance. Details

Description

Lots of thoughtful moves with unusual rock structures. Even more if add Variation 1 from the same TR anchor.

Start in the alcove near R end of ledge.
. . Variation 1 also interesting, same difficulty: Start up the arete which is out to left.

Diagonal up left along ramp to reach left end of roof as above.
. . Variation 2: The featureless face below left from the ramp. (5.9+)

Straight up past roof into L-facing corner and up that a bit. Then big step Right around corner (crux) into face, up that to top.
. . Variation 3 easier: Continue up in L-facing corner to top.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

In a big deep alcove / chimney partway up the cliff, about 15-20ft R of arete with 2ft-wide protruding block about four feet up.

- - > See on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo

Protection

Trad: Standard rack.  A micronut or #3 ball nut helps to really sew things up before the crux - but not necessary as there's a cam placement just a little lower.

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Adventure Stories sector.

Photos

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