Type: TR, 80 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 105 total · 4/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 19, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

You & This Route

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Loose rocks small and big (including a known big loose one a bit more then halfway up lying flat on a ledge), slippery lichen and moss on rock surfaces. Not ready for "prime time". Only for parties with a desire and knowledge to safely detect and remove loose rock and clean rock surface.

Variety of thoughtful moves in a variety of different rock structures: overhanging and slab.

Up the lowest face to 2ft-deep roof, and over the R side of roof (a bit awkward) - (easier if go farther right along roof?) - (crack to L is not interesting). Next up to alcove / pod at bottom of chimney.

. . variation Between Planets - exciting + thoughtful 5.10d: Up the overhanging prong to its top (on L side of obvious wide chimney).
. . . (for more at this difficulty, try the crux sequence of Good Shoulder Schweik).

Next over R side of overhang which forms the top of the alcove. Then up to base of R-facing corner/gully. Step up left onto face and up that to top.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).


Middle of bottom of lowest face below obvious wide chimney.

- - > See on this Photo


For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Adventure Stories sector.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.