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Routes in 1-Croft

5th Symphony TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Low Slab Direct TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Low Slab Left TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Valse Viennoise TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR, 80 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 42 total, 3/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 9, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This seemed to have the steepest section on the low part of the Gastlosen cliff. But the steep is not sustained, so most of the route is easier.

Start a few feet right of a substantial tree stump. Up a little ways gentle to reach the steeper section. Once through that, straight up to meet the wide grassy ramp.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Near the right end of the bottom of the main Gastlosen cliff, not far off the obvious gully. A ways right from the lowest point of the cliff bottom. A few feet right from substantial tree stump.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection

Top-Roping: Not easy to build a secure anchor near the point on the wide grassy ramp which is near the top of this route. As of 2016, there is no bolt anchor near the top this route - (The two-bolt rappel anchor is well to the left below the top of this route, so not suitable for belaying a climber on this route).

A different approach is to construct an anchor at the top of the upper part of this cliff, and belay the climber from the top - (because a single rope would not be long enough to belay from the bottom, and tying two ropes together would have too much rope stretch).
warning: Because of stretching of the rope, a falling climber on the lower slab so far below the top could go down a substantial distance and hit something hard, so better to use a less stretchy rope for this (more "static"), or at least keep lots of tension in the rope while belaying.

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for this sector 1.

Leading? Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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