1-Croft Rock Climbing
|GPS:||37.772, -119.127 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||kenr on Nov 4, 2016|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
The tallest "vertical slice" of this sector is about 175 feet tall. The ratio between the low and the high part varies by where measured relative to the wide diagonal ramp. Faces ENE.
Top-Roping: (as of 2018) For routes on the left side of the high part, the left side of the cliff top has a substantial low tree/bush, and a pair of bolts with mussy hooks. There might or might not be other natural or Trad anchor points for the right side.
For routes on the low part (as of 2018), there is one two-bolt anchor linked by plated-steel chain, with a plated-steel quick-link or rappel ring. It is very difficult to find sound natural or Trad anchor points along the top of the low section.
To access the top of this cliff: Scramble up left onto a ledge low across the low section. Traverse horizontal left under a large tree. Next down left-ward a little, then up diagonal left and turn right onto the wide grassy ramp. Up diagonal right on this across the entire east face. Ledge gets narrower as it continues (exposed) (loose rock) up around right edge of face above the gully. Then work back left to reach the top.
Difficulty: a couple moves of class 3, mostly class 2 with some exposure.
Or more difficult and strenuous, but perhaps quicker:
scramble up the gully (class 4) on the north (right) side of this sector.
Descent: Two rappels from 2-bolt anchors with a 60-meter rope. Or reverse one of the methods to access the top for Top-Roping (see above).
Equipment: The bolts (all 3/8 inch diameter) and hangers and rappel rings of the belay and rappel anchors are 304 stainless steel (inox). Most of the quick-links, snap-links, and mussy hooks are plated steel. The use of plated-steel for the (easily observable and replaceable) external hardware, together with stainless-steel for the bolts embedded in rock actually helps (by the "sacrifical anode" concept) to slow the (not observable) corrosion of the (difficult to replace) bolts.
The two oldest pairs of anchor bolts were installed in 2016.
Name: Peter Croft was born in Canada and with great achievements there. Now a long-time resident of Bishop, with a larger number of great achievements in California. Pioneered many new routes and free-solo performances on the Eastside -- with tilt toward longer routes at higher elevations, including great traverses. Also contributed guidebooks with some routes which those of us less gifted could enjoy.
. . (previous name of this sector: The June Lake Loop has long been recognized as a little visit to Switzerland. "Gastlosen" is a popular crag in western Switzerland).
warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
- - > See where on this overview Photo
To reach the bottom of the low slab part, scramble up onto ledge and traverse horizontal left on ledge until reach bottom of desired route. (5-9 minutes from Parking).
To reach the bottom of the high part, first go about 150-160 ft South along the base of the low slab part: scramble up onto ledge, then traverse horizontal left on ledge under tree, next down a little, then scramble up left to get on the wide grassy ramps which goes up left-to-right across the face. Turn sharp Right and go up right 120-170 ft on this ledge until reach bottom of desired route in the high part.
- - > See Access scrambles + trails, and Anchor locations on this Photo
- - > Closer view of rock features + climbing routes in this Photo
Time + effort estimate: From north end of parking lot to the base of the main high part of this sector is about +140 vertical feet over 0.15 mile distance (+43m over 0.25km), so typical range of hiking times 7-13 minutes.
GPS tracks for hiking/scrambling approaches -- view (or download) on
- - > this Map of the Silver Lake crag
Classic Climbing Routes at 1-Croft
Days w Precip