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Routes in 1-Croft

5th Symphony TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Low Slab Direct TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Low Slab Left TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Valse Viennoise TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR, 80 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 71 total · 5/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 5, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Lots of fun interesting moves all the way.

Up the dihedral with overhang at top. Gentle across ledge to below roof which is a few feet right (north) from below the central cliff-top tree. Up through the roof. Finish straight up slab with less-positive holds.

name: Valse Viennoise is a popular multi-pitch route in sector Grand-Orgue in the (bigger) Switzerland climbing area.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own new name for this climb.

Location

At the base of light-rock dihedral / open book six to eight feet wide, roughly below the central cliff-top tree. On the wide grassy ledge that rises diagonal left-to-right through the middle of the cliff face.

- - > See on this Photo

. . . . See on this Photo

Protection

No fixed hardware for top anchor or for leading.

Top-Roping: The two-bolt anchor on the left side of the top of the cliff is too far away from the rope of this route, but there is a substantial low tree / bush back a few feet from the top edge of the cliff, which could be used with a static line.
. . (There is also a directional bolt on the cliff face below left from that low tree / bush -- not useful for this route itself, but might allow some quick convenient "playing" on other rock after finishing this route).

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for this sector 1.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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