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Routes in 1-Gastlosen

5th Symphony TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Low Slab Direct TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Low Slab Left TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Valse Viennoise TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR, 80 ft
FA: TR Corey Todd
Page Views: 51 total, 4/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 9, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Worthwhile slab climbing, if that's what you're looking for.

Not sure about the exact route because though I belayed the first climber, there wasn't time for me to try it myself.

Find the interesting (or easy) way for your climbing style, finishing up to the wide grassy ramp which goes up diagonal through the middle of the main Gastlosen cliff.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

At the bottom of the main Gastlosen cliff, likely somewhere around the lowest point -- whatever seems to work.

Protection

Top-Roping: Likely could be done by adding a sling to the rappel anchor which just below the outer edge of the wide grassy ramp which goes up diagonal left-to-right through the middle of the main Gastlosen cliff.
. . (for the type of hardware used in this anchor, see Description page for Gastlosen sector).

If linking with the High Center Left route in the upper part above the grassy ramp, then need to use an anchor at the top of the upper part of this cliff, and belay the climber from the top - (because a single rope would not be long enough to belay from the bottom, and tying two ropes together would have too much rope stretch).
warning: Because of stretching of the rope, a falling climber on the lower slab so far below the top could go down a substantial distance and hit something hard, so better to use a less stretchy rope for this (more "static"), or at least keep lots of tension in the rope while belaying.

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Gastlosen sector.

Leading? Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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