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Routes in 1-Croft
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5th Symphony TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Darker Between Ribs TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left White Face TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left White Rib TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Low Slab Direct TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Low Slab Left TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Right White Rib TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Valse Viennoise TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | TR, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | TR David Smith + Ken Roberts |
| Page Views: | 567 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on May 18, 2018 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Some thoughtful moves, with a roof crux and then a thin face crux.
Up the light-color rib and on to reach 2-ft-deep roof. Pull the roof through notch in its center. Next trend right to face with thin holds. Up that (2nd crux) to finish about four feet right from central anchor tree.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own new name for this climb.
Up the light-color rib and on to reach 2-ft-deep roof. Pull the roof through notch in its center. Next trend right to face with thin holds. Up that (2nd crux) to finish about four feet right from central anchor tree.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own new name for this climb.
Location
Bottom is on the wide grassy ledge that rises diagonal left-to-right through the middle of the cliff face.
Start on light-color rib with bulge at bottom, just right of darker fractured rock, and about 12-15 ft left from dihedral / open book of lighter-color rock with cap.
- - > See on this Photo
Start on light-color rib with bulge at bottom, just right of darker fractured rock, and about 12-15 ft left from dihedral / open book of lighter-color rock with cap.
- - > See on this Photo
Protection
No fixed hardware for top anchor or for leading.
Top-Roping: The three-bolt anchor on the left side of the top of the cliff is too far away from the top of this route, but there is a substantial low tree / bush back a few feet from the top edge of the cliff, which could be used with a static line.
. . (There is also a directional bolt on the cliff face below left from that low tree / bush -- not useful for this route itself, but might allow some quick convenient "playing" on other rock after finishing this route).
For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for this sector 1.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
Top-Roping: The three-bolt anchor on the left side of the top of the cliff is too far away from the top of this route, but there is a substantial low tree / bush back a few feet from the top edge of the cliff, which could be used with a static line.
. . (There is also a directional bolt on the cliff face below left from that low tree / bush -- not useful for this route itself, but might allow some quick convenient "playing" on other rock after finishing this route).
For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for this sector 1.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
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