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Routes in Public Service Wall

1 to 4 crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blockhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
D'Ya Pee in Her Butt? T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Demolition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Federation of Insterstate Truckers. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Full Moon Good Drugs T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Go Drown in a Lake of Diet Coke, Fucker! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hands Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haverty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Juvenile Delinquent T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Light Duty T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Long Way Home, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Morning Wood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Naked Lap T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Nineric T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not Too Spicy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Out On A Whim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Patience T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Public Offender T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Repo man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Trash Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown 15 feet R of light duty T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.10a? - 30 ft R of light duty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Variante Argentina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 158 total, 12/month
Shared By: Nate Sydnor on Oct 26, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Starts with some hollow climbing on opposing flakes. After clipping the first bolt, engage in some very strange oppositional climbing, placing optional tiny gear with runners in the left crack before reaching two more generously-spaced bolts. These protect the crux climbing, with one particularly perplexing move at the 3rd bolt. After that, mellower 5.11 fingers leads to the anchor.

Location

Immediately left of the Diet Coke route

Protection

Bet on using either two ropes or an 80m. Some hand sized gear to the first bolt, then a few tiny pieces, slings, draws, and some fingers pieces for the end.

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Jib Holmstead
Alta, Wy
Jib Holmstead   Alta, Wy
May be a good idea to put in another bolt after the first to give better protectio. I was very lucky on a ground fall were all three small cams blew. It was pretty sandy in the crack however.
Very lucky walking away from that fall only bruised heels and some back pain.

Super sick line though. Good eye on putting this one up. Sep 20, 2017