Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 214 total · 8/month
Shared By: Nate Sydnor on Oct 26, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Starts with some hollow climbing on opposing flakes. After clipping the first bolt, engage in some very strange oppositional climbing, placing optional tiny gear with runners in the left crack before reaching two more generously-spaced bolts. These protect the crux climbing, with one particularly perplexing move at the 3rd bolt. After that, mellower 5.11 fingers leads to the anchor.

Location

Immediately left of the Diet Coke route

Protection

Bet on using either two ropes or an 80m. Some hand sized gear to the first bolt, then a few tiny pieces, slings, draws, and some fingers pieces for the end.

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Jib Holmstead
Alta, Wy
Jib Holmstead   Alta, Wy
May be a good idea to put in another bolt after the first to give better protectio. I was very lucky on a ground fall were all three small cams blew. It was pretty sandy in the crack however.
Very lucky walking away from that fall only bruised heels and some back pain.

Super sick line though. Good eye on putting this one up. Sep 20, 2017
Levi Call
Moab Utah
 
Levi Call   Moab Utah
 
I fell on a red x4 and yanked my belayer (who is not a small guy) off the ground a few feet. I had a yellow and blue x4 below the red one and I felt pretty confident that at least one of those would have held. That being said, I appreciate the style in which it was bolted. This was a super fun route with low probability moves and a stout grade, at least for an onsight attempt. Oct 30, 2018