Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,412 total · 20/month
Shared By: claytown on Apr 1, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


A classic line with fun, varied climbing the whole way. Start in a tight flare that is thin hands and fingers until you're on top of the block. Then climb twin cracks with fun foot ledges up to a roof. Great move to pull the #2 roof and keep going to another stance below the squeeze. Start squeezing and keep it up for about 3 body lengths to the #1s roof. Plug gear and turn the lip. Keep going to the chains. a 70m rope just makes it back to the ground.


Right of Repo Man in the corner just right of the route with the bolts. About 30 feet up there is a block on the right with an X.


Thin hands gear mostly. Some squeeze up higher but still thin heands in the back and at the lip of the roof. #1s down to .75 camalot at the very end. Some #2s for the middle roof and some fingers at the start. Maybe one bigger cam for the wide section (not the squeeze part). 70m rope


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Devin Fin
Devin Fin   DURANGO
this climb is 5 star for it's name alone. funny ass story about the name. but as it was a long time ago i dont recall . great rout .. not to be missed . nice addition to the growing number of routs being posted .. thanks. Apr 3, 2013
Credit where credit is not deserved. This is not my route. Apr 8, 2013
Devin Fin
Devin Fin   DURANGO
my bad Karl.. sorry for the diss information Apr 8, 2013
Sounds like a Heavy Duty route name.....? Apr 10, 2013
Monster Mary
Breckenridge, CO
Monster Mary   Breckenridge, CO
Great route!! My Mammut 80m was the perfect length, it's a FULL 130 feet. Anchors need new webbing or chains. I left a pretty new Dyneema sling on 1 bolt of the anchor cause it was all I had on me to leave. Oct 26, 2015
added quicklinks and rings in mid-April. Anchor is now as awesome as this route :) such a cool, unique climb! and definitely need an 80m or2 ropes. 70m doesn't even come close. May 11, 2016
Anus Herder
Colona, CO
Anus Herder   Colona, CO
Was able to almost lower to the ground with a 70m.. had to downclimb a few moves.. not bad. last bit of the climb is full on tight! Mar 20, 2017
Great route-don't forget your .75s.... a bunch of them Nov 13, 2017