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Routes in Public Service Wall

1 to 4 crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blockhead T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
D'Ya Pee in Her Butt? T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Demolition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Federation of Insterstate Truckers. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Full Moon Good Drugs T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Go Drown in a Lake of Diet Coke, Fucker! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hands Up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Haverty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Juvenile Delinquent T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Light Duty T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Long Way Home, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Morning Wood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Naked Lap T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Nineric T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Not Too Spicy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Out On A Whim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Patience T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Public Offender T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Repo man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Trash Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown 15 feet R of light duty T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.10a? - 30 ft R of light duty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Variante Argentina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 153 total, 3/month
Shared By: claytown on Apr 1, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A worthy pitch with small gear and an OW slot at the top.

Lieback a thin start in an offset dihedral (blue metolius and blue alien) working the feet. Tough moves for a body length to gain the flared pod and some good gear. Hard for the body length after the pod then a hard mantle to establish at the base of the flared OW. Now all you have to do is climb a 20 - 25' OW to get to the chains.

Anyone trying to onsight should be able to hold on a long time as the gear is small and the rock is the softer, white sandstone. Also the crack is varied and you'll be liebacking so you need to take care placing gear as tight as possible.

Location

Just right of Go Drown in a Lake of Diet Coke. Obvious tips crack with flared pods.

Protection

Black, blue, green aliens (though blue metolius fits better than green alien in spots), a #1 &/or #3 for the first pod. #2/#3 at the start of the OW then #4 or #5 camalot later (the OW tapers in the back).

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