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Routes in (3) The Aviary

Blue Grouse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eaglet S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Felsschlüpfer (Rock Wren) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Golden Eagle (extension to Eaglet, large roof) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kestrel (no need to speed) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Osprey S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
You, Me, and Everyone We Know S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Kevin Won 9/2016
Page Views: 339 total · 14/month
Shared By: wonk1132 on Sep 13, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Clip the first glue-in bolt pointing down on a roof, then pull over it via a right hand finger crack, revealing fifteen meters of .10- climbing to a good rest below an attractive, just off vertical blank slab. There are potentially several ways through this obstacle, but if you climb directly through the slab instead of sneaking left or right of this offset, give yourself a cookie.

I climbed this recently about a year after the FA. I think in retrospect that this might be .10+. I'm interested in other opinions of the grade. My sense is that it's sort of soft at .11-, but it's not inaccurate to label it thus.

Location

Just right of Blue Grouse. Easily discerned by the glue-in first bolt pointing almost straight down in a two foot wide roof

Protection

12? glue-in bolts

Photos

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Benj84
 
Benj84  
 
You only get the cookie for going straight through the slab if you're under 6 feet tall May 30, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10+
Cookies are for gym climbers. There are two obvious sequences, left or right of the bolt line, that are fun and intuitive. Left is slightly harder. The anchor hardware is strong enough to hold your weight, but someone really ought to replace those keychain links soon. May 5, 2018

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