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Routes in (2) Land of Shadows

Bulge Boogie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cerberus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Pockets S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
It's All Good T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Signs Preceding the End of the World S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad Dad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Reed Fee
Page Views: 193 total · 5/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Oct 20, 2014
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Fun, aesthetic movement through several crux bulges. This is a route that the Land of Shadows forgot, don't get burned by leaving your medium nuts and cams at the base.

Protection

9 bolts? two large nuts or medium cams.

Location:

Start next to a belay bolt a couple feet off the ground.

Photos

Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.10b
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.10b
I really enjoyed this route!

As other comments have noted, you'll definitely want to bring some gear with you to protect the run-outs between bolts.

I put in a medium nut and red tricam before the roof, then another nut followed by a Metolius cam (8) and another nut before the anchors (from last bolt). I found good stances for all gear placements. Jun 26, 2017
Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
  5.10
Nathan Collins   Portland, OR
  5.10
Don't mistake this for Wolf Point, a 5.9 sport route which looks similar in the Elmo Mecsko guide. I made this mistake, and later met another group of climbers who had made the same mistake that day. Without trad gear / if only using bolts for protection, I think Bulge Boogie gets an R rating: the first crux bulge is 20+ feet above a ledge, and the last bolt is far too below to protect it.

However, as a mixed route, the gear placements are obvious and this route is awesome! Two of the three cruxes are gear protected, but the gear placements are obvious and bomber. I'm a beginning trad leader, having only lead 5.7 trad before this route, but the stances were good enough that I could spend minutes placing each piece of gear and be pretty confident it would hold. In my paranoia, I got in 4 pieces of gear before the first bulge crux -- two cams, BD green #.75 and BD yellow #2, and two stoppers, BD #9 (?) nut and similar size BD hex -- and three more pieces in the vertical crack before the anchor -- including two BD #10 or #11 nuts lower down and then another #11 nut right before the anchor. So, if you're confident leading 5.10b sport, and want to practice placing gear, this is a great choice. But don't leave your gear on the ground!. May 9, 2016
Reed Fee
White Salmon WA
Reed Fee   White Salmon WA
First climb I put up after I injured my back.
Buldging disk....and a roof kinda buldges out. Oct 21, 2014

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