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Routes in Section 4

Black Hole S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blast in Black S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crimps and Slopers S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Double Roof Ballet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flight Time S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gateway S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Growing Pains S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hardman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Of Time S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Aidman's Free S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryisms S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Short Face S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Swamp Thing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Unknown. Current iteration: J. O'Connell and Connor StClair 7/16.
Page Views: 281 total · 11/month
Shared By: Johnny O on Aug 19, 2016
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

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This route starts to the right of Gateway and uses part of what was once Gateway Direct, which no longer exists. Start directly below the first bolt on easy rock. At the second bolt, smear up onto the large block and head for the third bolt. Head straight up for the top of the block, trying to avoid grabbing the edge out left. On top, near the wall is a nice finger crack, or just mantle. Climb straight up the wall past the fourth bolt to another mantle. The rings are not in an ideal location so it is better to just rappel back down. Not recommended for top-roping or lowering, unless you watch the edge closely. I did rappel the line over a dozen times and had no issues.

History can always be a tricky issue. Steve Pope did tell me that they didn't climb this line, although it is possible they did and he just didn't remember because it is a little easy and nothing special. We did solo Gateway Direct, which was easier and finished much further left, back in 2010. As far as the current, bolted sport line, July 2016.


Bolted line to the left of Left of Time.


4 bolts, rings at top.


Johnny O
Wilkesboro, NC
Johnny O   Wilkesboro, NC
The day we bolted the route and climbed it, the temperature was about 95 degrees and we literally burned our hands. The rubber on our shoes was almost useless so it could be easier than 5.7 in cooler weather. Aug 19, 2016

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