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Routes in Section 4

Black Hole S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blast in Black S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crimps and Slopers S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Double Roof Ballet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flight Time S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gateway S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Growing Pains S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hardman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Of Time S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Aidman's Free S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryisms S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Short Face S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Swamp Thing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,449 total · 29/month
Shared By: Steve Lineberry on Jan 4, 2014
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Start on good flakes and then bypass the small roof on the right before working back left to the massive drilled hole. Make sure to look down into the hole and continue up and left before moving back right through a weird move and gaining the anchors.

Protection

5 bolts and shuts

Photos

Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.7+
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.7+
A fun climb, lots of options for getting up. Some weird moves make it a good exercise in foot placement. If you warmed up with left of time, this is a good follow-up.

There is a cool bored hole to look up or down into near the start. Apr 12, 2015
Johnny O
Wilkesboro, NC
  5.7+
Johnny O   Wilkesboro, NC
  5.7+
This route doesn't seem to be getting much love but it is actually an awesome route for the grade and is one of the best moderates here when climbed correctly. Start under the large bore hole. You should be using the hole as a hold when clipping the first bolt. Shift to the right, using the holds just above the bolt and a nice pinch hold to the right. There is a nice ledge on the right to use as a right foothold. I just immediately flip my left foot (smear) above the small roof and lean over and grab the top of the hole. Then just climb the big holds and cracks up to the third bolt. I don't bother with the second bolt. Stay left and reach up to a nice bulge above the corner. Stand up and grab another nice hold about a foot above the bulge. Lay back the upper hold and walk up the corner. Once above the corner, there is a nice finger hold to the left and under a roof. Clip the fourth bolt and grab a nice crimper up to the right. If you step up high enough, it is possible to reach up into the corner and grab a nice jug near a sprig of grass. From there, climb straight up to the rings. I also ignore the fifth bolt. Jan 30, 2014

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