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Routes in Section 4

Black Hole S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blast in Black S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crimps and Slopers S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Double Roof Ballet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flight Time S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gateway S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Growing Pains S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hardman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Of Time S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Aidman's Free S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryisms S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Short Face S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Swamp Thing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Johnny O'Connell, Travis Mabe (02/11/2013)
Page Views: 1,052 total, 22/month
Shared By: Edward Medina on Dec 29, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

Climb a broken corner to some interesting mantling moves. Crux is at the fourth bolt.

Location

Middle section of cliff just right of steeper sport routes. Climbs through the darker rock.

Protection

5 bolts.

Photos

Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
  5.9+
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
  5.9+
I've fixed the name. Thanks Johnny! Feb 10, 2016
Johnny O
Wilkesboro, NC
  5.9
Johnny O   Wilkesboro, NC
  5.9
The name of this route is actually Blast In Black. The bottom section does have some crummy rock but I think that adds to the excitement and makes for good practice on rock that could break loose at any time. Too many climbers are coming out of gyms and expecting all holds to be perfect. That just isn't reality. The lower bolt was not originally there and I do not think it was necessary. This is real climbing, there is supposed to be an element of danger. The rock is excellent above the second bolt and the line stays right of the bolts until the sixth bolt. It is a little steep between the third and fourth bolts but the holds are excellent. The crux is after clipping the fifth bolt. The proper line moves to the right of the ledge at the bolt. There is a nice jug up to the right, if you can reach it, that will help you stand up on the ledge at the bolt. Mantle up onto the big ledge and climb several feet left of the last bolt. There is also an easier way to the right of the last bolt. Jan 30, 2014