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Routes in Mt. Babel

East Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2200 ft, Grade IV
FA: Greenwood Moss 1969
Page Views: 287 total, 19/month
Shared By: kiff on Aug 14, 2016
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

I learned two things on this wall: that the phrase "surprisingly good rock" doesn't mean anything aside from an individual's preceding sentiments concerning aforementioned rock. Secondly, that Mark Twight has a twisted sense of humor.

An absolutely giant face that escapes common internet description (for all of our sakes). I will not type out pitch by pitch beta because everyone's experience will differ and the route could plainly have altered because of gravity's clear influence on the wall. But, some general guidelines. 1) Place belays intelligently, displaying some sort of foresight. 2) Do not venture up there if there is any snow on ledges, YOU will have a bad time. 3) There is a big ledge bisecting the entire face that could offer escape should you need it before the real difficulties begin. 4) There is a mud pitch.

Start early and take advantage of the long summer days, this is an inspiring face that seems to be a rite of passage for many Rockies climbers...a once in a lifetime route.

Descent: From the summit, work your way down the N. Ridge all the way to the descent gully of the Tower of Babel. This is time consuming and requires some down climbing, rappels from various single-bolt anchors, and lots of scree. If you find my chalk bag strap, I want it back.

Location

From the northern shore of the southern Consolation Lake, follow the giant scree slope to the base of the face. The route begins on the left side of a large gully, following corners and faces to the top of a big detached pillar with a small scree col on top. This is directly below the obvious OW crack at the top of the wall. From Moraine Lake to the base of the wall should take no more than two hours.

Protection

Wires and double rack of cams to 3" with #4 and #5 camalots. There are a lot of parallel sided cracks. Protection throughout was pretty good when located, and offered solid belays. I suppose you could be cool and bring pins along, too. I recommend double ropes. All levity aside, Twight's topo found in the 50 favorites is useful; the wall is not quartzite though...

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