All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Elk Creek Spires > Chimney Rock

Frances' Secret Handshake

Name: Frances' Secret Handshake
Rating: 3.9

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

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Routes in Chimney Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chimney Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Ever Abel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Frances' Secret Handshake S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Learning Curve, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Left Ear Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mantelpiece T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Right Ear Up T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Ukrainian Challenge, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Sport, 165 ft (50 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	39.50653, -105.4142
FA:	Kirk Miller, Tyson Ferryman, Jake Burgart
Page Views:	6,800 total · 54/month
Shared By:	Kirk Miller on Jun 16, 2016
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Access Issue: Closure: Dam Rehabilitation Details

Chimney Rock and the nearby trails will be closed from Monday through Friday starting August 4th to allow room for crews working ok the Elk Falls Dam Rehabilitation Project. There is no estimated time for reopening, but the area is open to the public on weekends.

Per

Just another s…: the dam closure is Sunday - Friday per this link - cpw.state.co.us/state-parks….

Description

This route is dedicated to Frances Hornbrook Staunton, whose generous contribution led to the creation of Staunton State Park.

The climb gets morning sun and afternoon shade.

Onsighting this route will test your 5.11 skill set for sure. Climbing the first pitch, you encounter very steep rock with tricky roof, thin face, and delicate slab cruxes. This can be a very demanding climb. With a little luck, you might even discover the secret handshake.

If you're gunning for the summit you'll have to complete the second pitch, move the belay right to set up. The second pitch pulls a bouldery move right off a ledge with a huge perched block at your back. To prevent both ledge fall injury and the distinct possibility of falling onto the block, this pitch was closely bolted.

The rap anchors are right of the finish and conveniently accessed from the last protection bolt.

Huge props to Tyson for re-discovering Chimney Rock. Thanks for bringing me to this amazing spire! Thanks also to Troy Tadlock for help with summit bolts and rap anchors. Bolting these routes is a ton of work, and it's great to have help!

Location

It is located roughly in the center of the steep, Northeast face, right of The Learning Curve. A control bolt on the slab at the base marks the start.

Protection

First pitch: 19 bolts, 35 meters.

Second pitch: 7 bolts, 15 meters.

Strategic use of a few alpine draws on the first pitch helps reduce rope drag.
A 70 meter rope allows for lowering from the first pitch or rapping from the top with two raps (it's probably a good idea to knot the ends...).